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Malyan M200 poor print quality

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Help! Print quality on my Malyan M200 is very poor lately. I had a clogged nozzle and bowden tube and was able to clean all the tubes. Then I also changed the nozzle itself and relevelled the printing bed. Now printing on 230°C and printing bed temp 70°C. But there seems to be not enough filament coming through. I think the printing bed might still be too close to the nozzle. Looking at the pics, what is your opinion/advise?

Printing on 200°C and bed temp 60°C at start, then 40°C works fine now. Changed the fan for a Noctua 40x20 and printed a new side panel with air vents and installed a Noctua 40x10 there. Did the bed rewire mod too. With colored filament no problems. Just with the white PLA from Hobbyking: heavy stringing. But that seems to be a known issue with white PLA filament. Retraction set at 4,5 mm and 40mm/s speed.

This is the latest failure, it's a tombraider figurine. Don't regard the supports, I had Cura set to print support everywhere. Too much support here, so now set on "touching buildplate". But as you see in the picture, everything was fine till about 50-60% done. I noticed a little clog just at the tip of the nozzle and the Malyan just continued "air printing". I managed to retract the filament manually and saw a little thickness at the end of the wire. I suppose that it's heat creep. Printing too long heats up the heat break eventually. But I could be mistaken. That's why I post this, to hear your opinions. Can only be sure after replacing the stock fan with a Noctua 40x20 fan.

I notice you are missing insulation around the block. If you're having a heat creep issue, that might be a factor. Since you were originally printing too hot it probably made the issue worse. Just a thought.

Meanwhile my order for insulation and kapton tape has arrived. Installed it and since no more clogs. Lowered printing temp to 200°C and bed temp start at 60°C, then lowering to 40°C. Printing like a charm.

Hey! That's great news. Looks like heat creep was the culprit after all.

Hi everybody! Allright, so I was able to do some decent printing meanwhile (see picture). I managed to print the filament guide, the funny shitfinger and the handle with hook. Temperatures were indeed to high (230°C and 70°C). Now set to 190-200°C and 50°C for the bed. I also had another error, my filament diameter in Cura was set as 2.8 while it should be 1.75. Corrected it. Then layer height is now set to 0.0875 instead of 1. Printing works fine, but with larger objects i witness "AIR PRINTING" after 50% done. I mean that the printing continuous, but no liquid coming out of the hotend. In the Facebook group "MP SELECT MINI OWNERS" I was told that it's caused by "HEAT CREEP". So now I ordered the NOCTUA 40x20 fan as a replacement for the stock fan. I also succesfully printed a shroud for the Noctua fan. I include my new standard profile for the Malyan M200 / MP Select Mini v2 if anyone should be interested.

Adding to what Steprock said, what material are you working with? 230°C seems excessive when printing PLA. The brand I use would simply burn up and clog the whole assembly. Or are you printing with PETG? In that case it would make sense.

My thought was too that the clog might not have been fully removed. It would certainly make sense to use a new heatbreak which really are a dime a dozen. There are actually two Facebook groups that can help here, the other one is "Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer".

It's PLA allright. I'll try another print today at190°C and 50°C for the bed temperature. I'll let you know something if I succeeded.

Printing at 200°C works for me, at 190°C the first layers curled up on the bed. 10° makes a difference indeed.

Glad to hear that things are working now. That Noctua hotend fan, did you attach it directly to the stock fan cables or did you go the more complex route of using an external power supply?

Basically yes, just the red/white wires of the stock fan. But i bought the PWM version by mistake and this one has four wires (blue, green, yellow and black). But one can make this one work too: just take the yellow wire (12V) and black (ground) and solder them to the red and black wire of the stock fan. There's a but though.... The stock fan changes speed from voltage variation, which the Noctua's can't do. They need steady 12V to spin. So you have to change some values in Cura: you must change start.gcode by deleting the code "107" (which stops the fan) and replace it with "M106 S255 ;start with the fan full on" AND in the fan parameters you must change "fan full on at height = 0". That's all there is to it. And I must say, the Noctua's are very good and superquit. Just make sure to get the Noctua 40x20 for the hotend and not the 40x10 (bit too little flow for the hotend, but good for internal ventilation).

Yeah, I know the drill. The only issue I have with this method (I have already tried it myself) is that pre-heating doesn't work anymore because in this mode, the printer doesn't give full power to the fan. :-(

I'd suggest you join the MP Mini Owners facebook group since there are more people with quicker advice. Certainly better than mine. It is clearly under-extruding here. Have you attempted to lift the print head up and run filament through to see if it moves cleanly while not printing? something may be clogged further up.

Another thought is that the size of your new nozzle does not match what you set in the software. I don't suspect it's too close since you said you leveled it out. That's why I think there's still a clog somewhere or that the new nozzle is the source. Again, do try the FB group since you may wait for a very long time here.

Thanks for the suggestion, I joined the group on FB. Everything should be cleaned well. But the filament stream stops after 10-15 minutes and the Malyan goes on printing in the air. Totally clueless now.

Hmmmmmm.....I wonder if the extruder arm is cracked? They often include a spare when they ship it. Is it slipping as it feeds, for instance? If the printer is just running along but not printing you should hear it skipping as it is either clogged up or unable to feed. A crack in the armature would do that.

You might also try manually feeding filament with the software to ensure it's flowing. But yeah, your temps are way too high at any rate, like what 7Up said - 190 and 50 are perfectly fine temps.

Last of all, did you check the nozzle size against the nozzle size in Cura?

If anything, you are too far from the print bed, as I don't see any "squish" in the lines. If you are too close you'll see broad flat lines, and the extruder may slip. On my mini, I have to be careful not to over-tighten the Bowden tube connector on the hot end or it deforms the hot end's PTFE tube and makes it hard to get the filament through. Perhaps in your re-assembly you pinched something?

Did you clean your extruder after the clog? Maybe it is slipping due to debris build-up.

Here's a picture of my extruder re-assembly. As I mentioned in replies above, filament flow stops after 10 minutes but Malyan keeps on printing in the air. I included a picture of my extruder re-assembly. If I push the filament manually, a correct little stream of liquid comes out of the nozzle. Maybe problem lies with the filament feeder (motor or spring). I noticed that when I retracted the filament after stopping the print, the filament broke off at about the location of the feeder clamp.

i would also like to add that when i print PLA which i get from hobby king, i use a 0.4mm nozzle and i print at temps 205C hot end and 60C for the bed and i have no problems. make sure you set the right nozzle size in Cura if your using Cura that is.

(iv since upgraded to a Jgaurora A5) and i still use the same temps with no problems.

Yep, Cura it is. I print now at 200°C and 60°C for the bed otherwise the first layers curl up on the bed. I changed the stock fan for a Noctua 40x20 and a Noctua 40x10 on the right side (printed a new right side with air vents). Also did the bed rewire mod.

Im gonna throw a wild card out there and say you may be warping or burning the ptfe liner at that temp. This happened on mine when i started using abs. It took me a minute to figure it out, but it would seemingly squeeze the filament a bit in the heat throat. I would pull the tube and check.

It's evidently not a clogged nozzle. The next thing I would normally suspect is that the hot end is getting too cold after printing starts. Have you noticed if the temperature is staying where you set it in your slicer? If not, maybe the power supply is over heating.

Even though your photos are very detailed, it's possible I'm misreading them and you do have a leveling problem. Try printing something tall and skinny, like a temperature tower and see if it behaves any differently.