I'm helping a friend repair a Monoprice Select Mini V2. While trying to fix a filament jam, the throat broke between the heat block and the heat sink. We're completely unable to remove the broken sections and so the whole hot end is out of commission. I have a spare heat block and she was able to buy a new throat. But we can't get a heat sink anywhere online. She would buy the entire hot end from GigDigit, but it's out of stock. I told her I would appeal to the community to see if anyone has a spare heat sink or broken printer that the heat sink can be salvaged from. She will pay for the part and shipping. THANKS!!
im having issues with my MSPM V1 where if i print at .9mm or less layer height my printer i believe is creating to much resistance and will either keep ticking for the first 5 layers or will force the bowden tube out and then when i check it hours later it becomes a rats nest of wasted filament. any ways of fixing the resistance issue?
hey i have my malyan M200 for not even a month and i really love that thing but at the moment im facing a problem. it seems like i have a clogg in my hotend. i already checkt my boden tube an my nozzel and the arent the problem so now my only guess is that it is the hotend. i cant pull the filimant out and of cours it wont go through. Has anyone an idea or even a solutions. while im writing this im playing with the thought to get the hotend out of my maschine but i wantet to check for help first.
Help! Print quality on my Malyan M200 is very poor lately. I had a clogged nozzle and bowden tube and was able to clean all the tubes. Then I also changed the nozzle itself and relevelled the printing bed. Now printing on 230°C and printing bed temp 70°C. But there seems to be not enough filament coming through. I think the printing bed might still be too close to the nozzle. Looking at the pics, what is your opinion/advise?
I have been printing with ABS for quite a while and thought I would pass on how I have learned.
- An enclosure is required. I made mine by making a box out of foam core. I added a door with a plexiglas window. The box covers the entire printer including the spool holder.
- Enable WiFi. This will let you to alter the heated bed temperature beyond what the dial will allow.
- Start with the heated bed temperature set for 80°C in the slicer then when the hot end starts to heat change the bed temperature to 90°C. The bed temperature doesn't make it to 90°C unless the print is over a half hour but it does help.
- Use a brim. I haven't tried a raft but that should work just as well.
- Print on glass with hair spray. (6 or 7 light coats or 3 heavy coats) Spray an additional coat after about 4 or 5 prints or if the print doesn't stick. in time the smooth coat will look rough and you will be tempted to wash it off and start over, but the ugly rough coat actually make the print stick even better, you just don't get the glassy look on the bottom of the print.
- Let the bed cool down before trying to removing the print. The print will usually come off with little effort when cooled down.
There you have it, my approach to successful printing with ABS.
I use filament from 3DXtech. The 3DXtech factory is in Michigan and close enough that I can drive there in about 30 minutes and their prices are only a few dollars more than what I was paying for Hatch Box through Amazon but I am happy to pay a little extra to support local businesses.