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M3D heated bed Mod

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[Update 2]
ok found a killer combo:

  • USB warmer plug with 2.1amp wall adapter
  • Stone coaster to distribute the heat more evenly
  • Printbite found here http://mutley3d.com/Buy-PrintBite/ this will stick very well and allow effortless remove after bed cooled off

video here:
https://youtu.be/NFfj6IeaVmo
https://youtu.be/bzJ81AS92W0

[Update 1]
found a perfectly fit USB powered mug warmer and it is powerful enough to heat the bed
https://plus.google.com/+StephenCia/posts/iiBH3tArM7Q

Hi all,

Just wanted to share what I have done to my M3D. Here's a quick video showing the changes I made: https://youtu.be/MqZngtGUFiY

Basically I replaced buildtak with "zebra skin" and I put Mr.Coffee mug warmer inside the internal filament chamber. I also use M3D fio software found here: https://github.com/donovan6000/M3D-Fio

recently I've completed a 9hr40m print with the heat turned on for the duration of print. it has to be manually swithched on and off since it is not internally connected to M3D electronic. so this method requires someone to baby sit the entire process of printing. I would not recommend leaving the printing unsupervised. :)

Hi
I just read what was posted.
I have problems with the heat bed, but I have M3d Pro.
can the solution of the mug heater work for me?
has anyone come with another solution?

I got this heatbed from the kickstarter and it works fine for me. I could finally print ABS and it also raised my PLA success rate by 100 %.

Anyway, I traded in my Micro3D for the Promega and now I have this heatbed left for sale (fits for M3d and M3D+).

I am in Europe so if the buyer is in Europe too there would not be any customs tax.

If you interested please get in touch!

Doing a bit more reading, the max temp on most of these is only 45 degrees. Most ABS wants about 60-70. Probably won't work.

unmodified original M3D is simply not capable of printing ABS. and this heater mod is also not meant for ABS

Then why does it say it's able to handle ABS?

https://www.printm3d.com/themicro/
Under FAQ, Materials, What Materials can I print?
"The Micro is designed to print with either PLA or ABS. However, there are many other materials out there, and we’re always experimenting: stay tuned for even more compatible materials in the future."

It also says it prints PLA but look at how many user struggle just to get a decent print.

I am finding that taping clear plastic around the box while it prints is helping immensely. My house is cold and drafty, so taking the draft away seems to be working. Also running a small area heated in a closed room is also helping. My issues seem to be environmental.

I will attach the mug wamer to a heat sensor using arduino so I can keep the temperature I like. I will tell you my adventures!

I do have uno around but I'm very new to arduino. please post a tutorial when you get it working. I'm very interested in that temperature sensor reading

I have been tinkering around and made this Sketch, I don't know how it will perform on Long prints, but on small prints it seems to be good. I used a 5V USB Mug Warmer I found on amazon and a TMP36 Temperature sensor. The temperature oscillates between 2 Degrees Celsius. You can monitor the temps using the Serial Monitor that Arduino has.

/*
Mug Warmer 3D Printer Heated Bed.

TMP36 CONNECTIONS:

  • PIN 1 TO 5V.
  • PIN 2 TO ANALOG 0.
  • PIN 3 TO GND.

MUG WARMER CONNECTIONS:

  • POSITIVE PIN TO DIGITAL 7.
  • NEGATIVE PIN TO GND.

Guido Freire, 02/18/2016
*/

int sensorPin = 0;
int BedTemperature = 25; // Change 25 with the temperature you want the bed to have in CELSIUS.

void setup()
{
pinMode(7, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop()
{
int reading = analogRead(sensorPin);

// converting that reading to voltage, for 3.3v arduino use 3.3
float voltage = reading * 5.0;
voltage /= 1024.0;
// print out the voltage
Serial.print(voltage); Serial.println(" volts");

//Printing results in Serial.

// Print in Celsius.
float temperatureC = (voltage - 0.5) 100 ;
Serial.print(temperatureC); Serial.println(" degrees C");
// Print in Fahrenheit.
float temperatureF = (temperatureC
9.0 / 5.0) + 32.0;
Serial.print(temperatureF); Serial.println(" degrees F");

// Controlling the Mug Warmer.

// When Temperature is hotter than the Expected, Turn OFF the Mug Warmer.
if (temperatureC > BedTemperature) {
digitalWrite(7, LOW);
}
//When Temperature is cooler than the Expected, Turn the Mug Warmer ON.
if (temperatureC < BedTemperature) {
digitalWrite(7, HIGH);
}

delay(1000); // Tinker around with this delay, I found 1 second to be perfect.
}

I sure will! I thought about the Uno as a standalone so you have to configure it from the Arduino IDE. I managed to make it work but the temperature is not very consistent, It oscillates a lot, when I get a more consistent temperature, I will post the code so everone can Use it!.

thanks which USB mug warmer did you use?

how did the prints come out? i was at a thrift store just yesterday looking for a coffee mug warmer for this very thing. did it make a difference at all? what did you use? abs, pla ?

well I have discovered that the coffee mug warmer is actually too hot for the build plate.... even though print came out fine, but now the zebra skin looks a bit beat up. I will try with mug warmer that is USB powered I know those are less powerful. :)

That is a good idea i did not think about a usb one. let me know how it works out

That is a good idea i did not think about a usb one. let me know how it works out