This Group is growing fast and I welcome you all!
If you have any ideas or wishes for some changes in the group (description, pictures, sorting of things, etc) let me know!
MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
looking for a kossel project
that uses the wheel system on the sliders and has some details like the bolts to use
With the arm measurements and which bearings to use, in the past there were a lot of delta designs in this style but they just disappeared ... can anyone point me to one?
I am using here profile 2020 with measures of 240mm and 680mm height
Does anyone have or know where to find the start and stop G codes for the knockoff Kossel (Delta) Printer 180 x 180 x 300. The ones in Cura 4.1 don't work.
I'm trying to print a new design for a protectionplate for the underside of my Kossel, The plate has a diameter of 210 mm, with some mounting gear that exceeds that diameter (max 213 mm). I thought the build volume was 230 mm as advertised, but I can't go beyond the 210. When it first exceeds the 210 mm one of the arms gives a "kloink" and the bed-leveling after that is totally off, until a cm above the correct position, re-leveling solves that btw.
In the settings (move axis) the max. for the X and Y goes from -105 to 105 mm (=210 mm). Manually you can move it to ca. 115/230 mm. So is it the firmware? or is it a problem with the hardware ( the "kloink")?
Rods are 265 mm (axis to axis)
Buildplate 240 mm.
UPDATE: according to two fellowmakers (thanks), Marlin 1.1.8 and 1.1.9 should give no problems.
Last night while upgrading my effector on my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus I zapped (static) my GLCD (on the metal bezel of all places), and probably also blew some I/O's my Re-ARM which is attached to it. I'm waiting on a replacement display to check it out before I know for sure. I've been using the Re-ARM with RAMPS 1.6 (running Marlin 2.0) for a while and like it for the most part, but the Re-ARM is far from perfect (but it is cheap). If my Re-ARM is blown, I would like to look at other options. The only thing that I think I would really call a need with a 32bit board is Marlin support, and stepstick driver support, any suggestions or experince with em?
i have a kossel XL 3d printer and i whant to upgrade it to a z-probe. only the problem is
When i googgle it i get a lot of links.
but when i try some things nothing works..
So i hope that some hear can help my.
My setup of the 3d printer is
Ramps 1.4 with dvr8825.
marlin firmware 1.0
So im just havin an issue with my Kossel Linear Plus where my hotend wont heat-up, not even a degree.
What i've tried and seen:
What could it be? Fried motherboard?
Thanks in advance.
One paper they seem absolutely perfect. Extemely tight tolerences, reasonably priced, don't rely on springs like ball cup arms, and can't fall off like magball arms. Only person who has tried them is David Crocker and he didn't say much about how well they worked for him in his blog. Only thing he said is that they began to wear out rather fast due friction from the tight tolerences but I'm sure that could be fixed with white lithium grease. I'm suprise I haven't seen others using them. Anyone have any experience with them that they could share?
I have a Sintron kossel mini, and have noticed some pretty big cracks in the carriages. I am considering replacing them with linear bearings, but have heard that they wear out pretty quickly. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to buy, or other options? Ideally I don't want to spend too much, but I'd rather spend a bit more than have to replace them in a few months! I'm also considering upgrading some of the other plastic parts to aluminium while I'm at it and maybe putting some motor dampers in.
Hello, I have a Folger Tech Kossel that I customized over the summer, and I'm having issues with calibrating it. I changed the height, and width of the aluminum extrusions (and increased the bed size and carbon fiber rods accordingly). I've been able to do a 20mm cube test print. The z-axis is dead on but the x and y are both off by almost 4mm(!), but both are off of each other as well. I found this to try and calibrate the printer:
But I don't have the right version of Marlin that lets me change tower angles in the main tab.
I got the carbon fiber rods quite accurate to each other, but from my understanding, a small difference can make a large impact on print proportions.
I guess what I'm asking is:
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.