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JG Aurora A5 with Marlin 2.0?

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Hello! I just did the endeavour to get my A5 on Marlin 2.0 Firmware in the process of trying to get my print quality back up again.

It seems like it is working fine however I currently have two issues:

  • the PID autotune values are not really good, I still have up to +/- 5°C around the configured temperature for the hotend
  • I have SEVERE underextrusion, even with 120% flowrate

For the latter I already experimented around with a lot of stuff including disassembly of the hotend and checking if the PTFE is properly mounted. I could not find any reason why this is happening.

So I have two questions

  • any of you have an A5 with Marlin 2.0 running and can tell me if this is working properly?
  • Why on earth do I have these issues?

Kind regards,
Johannes

do you use octopi or similiar to mnoitor the temperature while printing ?

because you know PID i guess you have looked in marlin2 documentation already?
https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#thermal-settings

i personal haeven't used TeachingTech's new setting up your printer help page by myself but lokks promising, maybe you give it a shot.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp

to be honest i havent used my A5 recetly i know i have to meshbed level him again before i can do anything!

All bets are off now anyways. I found the issue and it was a clogged heatbreak with carbonized PTFE b/c I ran my printer too hot constantly. Trying to remove the heatbreak snapped it, so I'm changing to a V6 all-metal hotend now.

yeah thats also something on my future-todo list.
regarding your marlin2 update, do you just wrote the original marlin2 with the correct board on the A5 ? or are there additional drivers or a special firmware ?

thanks.

I basically just did a three-way merge on my current Configuration.h/Configuration_adv.h files and the ones from Marlin 2. If you want to try I append the files here, however bear in mind I have a BLTouch installed so I fiddled with the endstop sensor settings as well.
Only now understood your question, yeah this is vanilla marlin 2, no customization outside of the Configuration/Configuration_adv.

Perfect thanks ;)

(and i take your config files aswell) ;)
i haven't done much last year with 3d printing, but with the days getting shorter and colder (and we are going less surfing) i have time to get back on track.
hope you don't mind if i ask you how you attached the BLTouch? selfmade solution or a thing do you have a picture ? another thing on the list so i don't have to manually meshlevel.

thanks alot.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3754873

For the E3D V6 hotend in the mail I will have to look, the adapter mount I'm having printed for me does not have support for the BLTouch so I might just glue it on the side for Starters before attempting a more permanent solution

Edit: One more thing regarding the Marlin 2.0 Project - I actually flashed back to 1.1.9C because I couldn't get the PID handling in check. The Hotend Temperature fluctuated +/- 5°C with Marlin 2.0, only around +/-1°C with 1.1.9C (the reason for that I did not figure out).

JGAurora A5 3D-Touch sidemount

Thanks again.
it seems every A5 owners first print with the orange PLA that came with the printer is the fan enhancement. (so was mine!)

i think rather gaming tonight i try level my printer, print the BLTouch plate and order one right now.

Please write when you test the all-metal hotend. I want to change to microswiss all-metal hotend too but I found that many users have issues with stringing and cloging when printing with PLA.

Ok the hotend is installed and after 1 1/2 days of tweaking I'm getting there. Tightening temperature of 285°C speaks for itself, tolerances are extremely low in comparison to the original. I'm currently printing PLA a whole 10°C below the lower boundary of the recommended values (195°C where 205°C-225°C are recommended) because I'm an idiot, however the filament flow is perfectly equal and the print quality is looking excellent.
There is one thign I need to point out however:
1) the Bowden that is delivered with the E3D is too short, and I bought a Capricorn, but both tubes are so tight that most of the torque of the extruder stepper is wasted in the friction with the tube. I had catastrophic results until I replaced the Capricorn with my shoddy original A5 PTFE tube.
2) Installing the E3D on the A5 requires an adapter that does not have a place to hold a BLTouch. I now have a solution where I used TESA Power Strips to glue a piece of 3mm plastic onto the Cooler holder of the E3D, then used another TESA Power strip to glue the BLTouch holder to that plastic - and finally mounted the sensor on that holder. Seems to work but is of course not the nicest way to go ahead xD

Will do!
Two reasons for the all-metal for me:
1) The V6 was recommended to me from several people for being a good hotend.
2) I'm a slob who doesn't take extraordinarily good care of his stuff and this hotend is rated for 285°C which I intend not to reach and does not have the risk of carbonizing PTFE again like I just witnessed ^^

I also read that there is a huge difference in clogging behavior between the genuine v6 and clones (which cost one FIFTH of the original) so maybe at least some of the complaints come from clone users.