Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Its not sticking again.

Please Login to Comment

Hi guys, I might have written here before, but this issue persists and comes around every now and then.
I have a glass bed, and I can assure that the bed is level.
I recently started selling self designed wall mounts for a VR headset, and my business relies on my printer working. Not even a week ago, I was able to print my things perfectly, up until today. I have been using the same spool and brand for a few months now, magically stopped sticking to the bed and instead just groups up on the nozzle and slides around.
I clean the glass after each print with windex and isopropyl alcohol, and it worked until now.
At this point Im pulling my hair out, the prints arent my main source of income, but I would like to print and ship the prints asap.
Any help would be great guys. Thanks in advance.

For me:

  1. Level bed (while hot)
  2. Wipe nozzle with a cotton cloth (while hot)
  3. Clean bed (with 90% rubbing alcohol)

If its the stock glass, mine warped after a few months. whats your procedure for leveling?

I use hairspray and never clean my bed. Just a quick little mist after every few prints and have zero problems. I mostly print PLA, PETG, and TPU.

+1 cheap aquanet hairspray works the best on my glass bed

I agree, also do this, sometimes I use hot water and dish washing detergent to clean the old hairspray off and re-apply a healthy new layer (between ~10-20 prints).

Rule of thumb is:

  • level everything hot (people level cold for some reason and cry when warping occurs AT HEAT)
  • re-level if you are switching materials (and bed temps)
  • re-apply hairspray every few prints, especially for large surface prints so they stick
  • try first layer CLOSER to the bed (ie, 1st is 0.1mm vs 0.2mm if norm is 0.2 for being closer to the bed.

EDIT: I thought about this for a bit and want to address your initial statement more directly. I still hold with the bed isn't totally level, but that said - if it's only GLASS then I would try some acetone with a non-plastic scrubber like fine steel wool. You may have some invisible buildup going on that the Windex/water won't dissolve. Suggest you do it outside & wear gloves, acetone is nasty.

I also have a solvent in my arsenal that will probably dissolve steel (LOL) it's called Goof-Off, and in the US you can get it at Home Depot, Loews, Ace, or other hardware outlet. This stuff dissolves anything. But nasty, VERY nasty, VENTILATE!!

Original Post:
I went crazy for months with adhesion problems. Every troubleshooting site starts with "Level the Bed, and if that doesn't work, Level the Bed". I too, thought my bed was level ...

I leveled the bed until the cows came home. I printed thumbwheels, I tried glass, Blue tape, purple glue stick, Martian Slime (and boy was THAT expensive!) (JK, don't go looking for it people!), etc, etc, etc until I was sick. Sometimes things stuck then the SAME filament and treatment would fail. Like you, I'm now bald.

I finally got some traction (pun intended) when I got a PEI sheet - I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDTPQK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put it on a NEW sheet of glass which I cut from (are you ready??) a dead "All in One" Canon printer, the scanner glass. Do you think that glass is FLAT? You bet. I rounded and sanded down the edges with a diamond hone under running water.

Wow what a difference that PEI sheet made! Now I got a lot less adhesion problems, but ... they STILL plagued me. Until I found the magic sauce - REMOVE the back right bed adjustment screw assembly!! Go to a THREE corner leveling system. Volia! PERFECT LEVELING and my prints come out great now, no adhesion issues. After 6 months of frustration in HELL, my printer now works.

The reasoning for this is so simple it's stupid. If you secure a flexible plate (and yes, your bed does flex) by four corners it's almost impossible to get to a level position without stressing one of the corners. It's geometry. If you define a plane you need THREE points. Raise or lower any of the points and the plane remains FLAT. Tilted, but FLAT. Do that with a 4 point object and you get a twisted object. Do it with a print bed and one corner's hieght is controlled by the other three, but the plate always remains FLAT. If you have any Engineer blood you'll be going "Duh" at this point! LOL

I align now using a simple pattern: I use a small aluminum tube that happens to be the right height (it's 13mm) and slip it between the bed and the Y carriage plate, using it as a "feeler gauge" to adjust all FOUR corners to the same basic height, using just THREE adjustment screws. (Oh yeah - I also put a small bit of silicone as a washer between the adjustment screw and the bottom of the bed, it keeps the thing from slipping and changing the settings while printing)

The fourth corner is the tricky one, I use IT as the starting point and adjust the other three until they all match him. There's a feel to it but once you get started it will make sense.

Of course, the Z Home is the last thing to adjust, although you'll got back and forth between it and the bed, but you'll get it. Any future adjustments will be easy.

I use this for my Z Axis Home switch, it makes setting easier, changeable (with or without glass, multiple glasses with different thicknesses, etc). It also gives MUCH finer control of how much Z you've changed during adjustment. You'll get so you can adjust for the hair on a gnat's ass, LOL.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2032025

All of this is a bit of work, but you'll stop losing hair!

OH- A similar principle applies to the bearings on the Y axis. You DON'T want FOUR you want THREE (obviously, two on one rail, one on the others). For the same reason as the bed ... it can bind with four if not perfectly aligned, and they never are (Did you pay $10K for your printer? No? They're not.) Also removing a bearing reduces the friction of moving the Y by 25% (more if there was binding). Win Win.

Most carriage plates are pre-drilled for it, if yours is not, consider this upgrade, it's dead flat and MUCH more rigid than the original.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well, hope this helps!
PuterPro

Wanhao i3 adjustable z endstop Thumbwheel Remix

I also use the same PEI sheet, although I put it directly on the aluminum bed. Prints stick down every time for me, and they come off with a mirror finish on the bottom. I would also recommend the carriage plate upgrade, as my stock carriage plate warped and made leveling impossible.

Yeah, glass like bottom surface and 90% of the time no voodoo of glue sticks, hairspray, Dissolved ABS in volatile chemicals, fresh chicken blood. Just print and go. Pops off every time no issues, my Wife said "Wow that's like magic compared to the other things you've had to do!"

Never disagree with the Wife. WELL worth the money.

I put mine on glass so I could use other methods, I do some exotic filaments and some will stick TOO well. I did some Hatchbox Wood at 70°C Bed and the first print stuck so well I was concerned about the second part (It was Baby Groot) as there are some delicate parts (fingers) on the body print. I resorted to purple glue stick on the PEI sheet, it acted as a buffer and it came off no problem, glue washed right off, and back to normal.

i use 3dlac everything sticks fine, maybe adjust level i bit higher to push first layer harder onto the glass

the weather is change? maybe now is cooler? just start using a spray to help adesion and set the bed at 35°

I have been using hairspray on glass bed, abit of blue tape
on finger tips spray on to tape rub onto glass, prints didn't stick
for me without it