I've owned my i3 plus for going on a year now, and I've finally ended up with a terrible problem I just can't work out on my own/researching previous forum posts. I've been having some Y axis layer sifting problems for awhile now but had always been somewhat random. Also no rhyme or rhythm to them and they seem to come and go. Quite some time ago I added a Y tensioner and a better idler pulley mount that seemed to help quite a bit, but then they came back. So I replaced the belt, and while doing so I made sure the grub screws were tight, which they were, and still are. My bearings are fine and properly lubed, and rods are strait.
After struggling for awhile with protopasta's HTPLA (normally use inland's PLA+, PETG, but have also easily used eSUNs wood and sain smarts TPU), I had finally started to get the settings dialed in and was beating the clogging issue. But now I've hit a brick wall, so I'm reaching out for help.
Now, I'm getting -constant- Y shifts, but they are starting as soon as Cura's top layers start. After more research, I lowered acceleration and jerk in the firmware, as well as lowering both within Cura for the top layers. I use 10 top layers to get that beautiful top skin, after fighting some pillowing in the past. ....but I'm at a loss now.
I've attached 3 examples of 3 different prints, of 3 different files; there is two different angles for the first example.
For the 1st, I highlighted the shifts in green.
The 2nd, I didn't even notice until marking up the photos, but there is a slight y shift very early in the print, which I marked in red, and normal end layer shifts in green. I added this 2nd one to show the varriations in the high top layer shifts.
This 3rd one is also to show varriation, but this time it was an even, single shift... I hid some nastiness behind the grey because there was some embarrasing stringing due to playing with the settings trying to prevent the HTPLA from clogging (had dropped filament retraction from 6mm to 0.5, after dropping it to 2mm wasn't enough, but it turned out the clogging issue was the TPFE tube so I wa able to turn the retraction back up to proper levels)
So if anyone has any other tips or suggetions, I'm all ears! Well, I guess eyes since it'd be reading text and not listening -_- But thanks in advance, if you managed to read this far :)
I recently had issues with the filament clicking while printing. I realized that the PFEG tube was clogged and I replaced it. The problem was not fully solved, so I decided to switch to the Microswiss all metal hot end. The clicking issue is completely gone, but now filament is leaking out of the metal block that the nozzle is screwed into. I will include a picture, but the leaking is clearly coming from 2 places. Has anyone ever had this issue or knows a solution to it.
Printing black amazonbasics PETG at 240C, 35mm/s print speed, 2mm retraction distance at 35mm/s. E-steps is at 96.2, feed rate is 25mm/s in firmware. This problem has occurred with amazon petg, 3d solutech PLA, and hatchbox PLA. I have tried several different springs and a spring tensioner, and differing levels of tightness on the screw that holds the lever to the plate, all with the same clicking sound.
-LM8LUU three bearing setup for y carriage
-Removed all belt tensioners and tightened belts
-Screw-in Thermistor from Gulfcoast Robotics
-Self-Made silicon sock using mold on thingiverse
-5015 Radial Fan mod on stock duct
-Microswiss extruder plate and lever (with stock PTFE hot end)
-Ball bearing hot end cooling fan
-Glass Bed with thermal pads
-TUSH spool holder with filament guide
-Brand new stainless steel 36t extruder gear
Does anyone know how to fix this?
So I recently ran into a problem of my heater cartridge wire snapping right at the heater cartridge tab. I ended up purchasing the heater cartridge and it looks like it is meant to be re-soldered at the control box. However, it wouldn't be in my interest to have to go through all the wires. So is it possible for me to re-solder the new heater cartridge by cutting up the point where the clear wire and red wire meet (the shrink wrap)? And is there a polarity to which way to solder (does positive and negative matter)?