So I've just taken my 'cube completely apart and started to rebuild from scratch, on a flat glass table, making sure to align/square the frame as best I could (armed only with a set square) and I'm still running in to the same problem.
There's a slight twist somewhere that's causing the X/Y carriage to wander somewhat at the extremities of the bed. For example, if I home X & Y, then start moving the carriage along the X axis, the right bearing block starts moving towards me and the left one away. It's a good couple of mm or so movement at either end, enough to disengage the Y endstop at around 40mm of X travel.
Same goes for the Y axis; home X & Y, start moving along the Y and the carriage moves to the right the further away from home I go (and again, disengages the X endstop at around 30mm from home).
I've tried multiple combinations of belt tension; tight, loose, one tight one loose etc. but can't seem to straighten it out.
I didn't really notice the problem initially as I was only printing small parts, but it arose the other day whilst preparing to print a large (180x100 ish) piece. Being the first large print I've done I thought I'd test the movement first and noticed the wandering.
If it helps, it's a standard build (200mm³ print size), 2020 extrusion, 10mm carbon fibre w/polymer bushings, 8mm (7.96) steel rods w/LM8LUU bearings, held together with those crappy Banggood brackets (maybe this is part of the problem?). Parts were printed on a crappy Chinese i3 clone, they came out functional but far from perfect.
Without belts installed, both the X and Y move freely with no binding (Y with gravity, X needs some assistance due to the bushings, but it's not exactly difficult to move).
Hi, I'm planning on making a dual extruder version of the
Remote Direct Drive [see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4268741 ].
My little research gave me this perspective:
- a dual extruder system must have a way to calibrate the relative height of the extruders.
- it is possible to drive to noodles at the same height (without servo for the switching process)
This leads us to the candidates:
- E3D Chimera
- 2x E3D V6
Whats your opinion ?
Do you know a better solution ?
I am currently building a Hypercube Evolution From 3030 extrusion.
I used a bit longer Z extrusions so I have some extra space underneath the Z axis for electronics.
Anyone of you know a PSU mount that can mount the PSU UNDERNEATH the Z-axis?
It seems the PSU mount is either not added to the remix of HenryArnold or I am looking not that ok.
Anyone can help me with a underneath PSU mount for the hypercube evo with 3030 extrusions?
I am giving a lot of thought to building a Core XY machine, and I have questions, and things I need to know before taking the jump.
I plan on mostly PLA, and some PETG and flexables, but I am not really looking to do ABS, PC, or other high temp stuff.
What I would like to use, or plan to use:
linear rails, at least for the X&Y (probably cheap amazon ones, and not HWIN, primarily due to price)
310 x 310 heated bed
SRK 1.4 or 1.4 Turbo or SKR Pro 1.1
TMC 2209's or 2130's or 5160's
BTT V35 screen, because I want touch for somethings, but miss having a wheel control and ability to cancel prints without having to jump inot an app or web browser.
RPi4 for Otcopi/Astrobox remote and "off site" control
Core XY frame:
I see all kinds of suggestions on what type of extrusion to use - 2020, 2040, 3030. I am looking at the Hypercube Evo design with 3030 extrusion https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103, or one of it's EVO 2020 variant https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2452700 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4087259.
How stiff does the frame really need to be? I have seen that BLV recommends 2040 for his BLV Cube, but after talking a look at his mods for an Ender 3, I feel he tends to overkill. I want something that would be capable of print speeds north of 150 mm/s and not have surface artifacts like ringing.
Is any standard NEMA 17 fine, or should I consider 0.9 degree steppers instead of the standard 1.8 degree? What is the advantage? I know that it could theoretically yield better precision and prints, but there is such a thing as micro stepping... And I would think that 0.9 stepper could have the potential to get hotter, degrading performance and lifespan.
I wanna go fast, and a little bigger than my current Ender 3, but there is too much info out there. I want some voice of experience to guide my build.
I have got my take of the Hypercube producing really nice prints So now it's time to turn my attention to accuracy. I printed a 20mm cube and it is 20.009mm on the X axis but 20.46mm on the Y axis.
As both axis share the same motors how do I correct this?
I have got the difference between the x and y axis to 0.06mm across frints from 10mm to 150mm so I am happy with this.
What I did was to design new xy motor mounts that allow adjustment along the x axis. This allows me to ensure the belts run truly parallel with the y axis rods.
I also changed from a polyurethane belt to a rubber one.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to post.