Hi everyone, i have an hypercube diy, i pay for someone build, but actually have some issues,
- Like the level of the bed, some times fail, i level manual.
- Due to an error, I moved the z-axis stroke stop, and repeatedly mistreated the printing surface that is non-slip.
- I live in a place where the saltpeter of the earth is very high on issues of the region that is coastal, and it greatly affects the steel rods.
In my case I have been investigating and I would like to know if it is very complex to make the following changes to my printer.
- Changes rods for linear rails
- Change the hotbed and the surface, for new like ender, etc.
I have been researching and they have shown me examples, updates and improvements of projects from here in the community, but I have problems in that they are for version 300x300x300, and my printer is 200x200x200. I also read that they recommend that if linear rails are to be used, it is better to move from an 8-bit architecture to a 32-bit architecture, for the issue of better processing and other things.
Sorry if the topic was very long, but I have these doubts since I know very little and doing something that I could not solve very easily would be fatal for me.
I add pictures from my 3d printer, thanks.
Hello guys and gals,
I'm an owner of an original Tech2c Hypercube I built 2 years ago.
It runs like a charm, and I'm pretty happy with it.
My only gripe is that I'd like to have a larger build surface, as 200x200 is starting to feel cramped.
I want to jump to a 300 mm bed, with room to increase that to 400 in the future.
I have seen Arthur's lab hypercube XL (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwsekiOP7rA) and I like what he did, and I plan to implement the triple Z mod (https://hevobr.wordpress.com/assembling-the-triplez-en/).
Does anyone have experience how I may need to switch to a larger profile size, like 3030, or 2040 ?
I have searched the youtube, browsed this forum and looked left and right, but did not find much info about rigidity of the frame.
I hope this is the right place for my question. I'm using a classic Hypercube with a Volcano hotend. It took me quite a while to get usable results with the Volcano hotend and a change from cura to slic3r. But there is this one thing i couldn't get rid of and that's these strange artifacts on at least one edge of my parts depending on the length of the previous perimeter there either are these blob-like edges or "normal" edges. I tried quite a lot but they are still a part of my print results. No matter if printed with 60mm/s speed and 800mm/s² (400mm/s² for perimeters) acceleration or with 120mm/s and 3000mm/s². The only difference were kinda more warped edges but still the same old artifacts. I also converted my Hypercube to linear rails (mgn12) since then and tried calibrating the extrusion multiplier several times, but nothing of that seemed to fix or even change that problem. With the classic hotend i didn't have these problems, but i would like to get the Volcano working actually instead of switching back. It also doesn't matter if i use a 0.4mm, a 0.6mm or a 0.8mm nozzle. I also checked my belt tension several times, so i'm starting to run out of ideas.. :-/
Thanks for your time! :-)
I am trying to find decent heated bed/build surface for my Hypercube that is atleast 250mm in size. I see some 310mm ones for the CR-10, but I have no idea if these would be something I could easily use or wire into my Hypercube with the standard 12v powersupply and Arduino/RAMPS board.