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Designing printable color change filament

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Hi all,
I recently saw an article on printing multicolor filaments on ALL3DP, which links to a file on thingiverse.The concept is that you start printing the filament but pause part of the way through to change the color. The issue: since all of the filament sits on the build plate at once, when you change the color all your filament is only halfway complete. This means that the filament doesn't transition from one color to the next; instead, you get two colors continuously extruding through your nozzle.

While this can produce some interesting effects, it's not what I want. I want a transition from one color to the next, and I can see a way to accomplish it. The only issue is designing it; while I'm decently skilled at Fusion I think I'm going to need some help for this one.
The concept is simple; print the filament in a coil going upwards, like this slinky:
And leave 0.05mm clearance between each layer so that it will separate from itself like support from a model. This will produce gradient transitions from one color to the next.
How can I make this in Fusion?


You can also use multicolor filament - the transitions between colors have a decent gradient. Check this, where I used most of my transition color material for supports but the result is still OK


Lady in lila

Actually, I'm trying to make that kind of filament printable.

there is a page (google Pursa Color print) where you can import your Gcode and tell it to pause on certain layers so you can change fillament.
it saves alot of "design" work in Fusion for a colour change at a layer height. (great for raised letter signs, logos etc)

For 2 colours in a single layer i build separate components and export them individually as STL's and use Slic3r PE to combine and assign Extruders to them (i have a 2 colour printer that can do this"

Yeah, but what I'm trying is to produce gradients. The shift from one color to the other will produce a gradient; the cut-and-follow-on or filament change methods can't do this.

gradients you can only do with multi colour mix head printers like the Geeetech A10M.
as far as I know you cant do that with a single head printer.
to get a clean cut on the colour change you need a wipe tower. or a manual purge. but to be honest depends on the model and if you do from Inside out the easier for a clean cut.

all in you don't do the colour change work in Fusion you do it in the Gcode

Please, can we stop arguing about whether this is the correct approach? I asked for design help, not advice to try something else.

Please, can we stop arguing about whether this is the correct approach? I asked for design help, not advice to try something else.

Yeah, but this is what you can do with printed filament:

3D-Printable Filament! -Print Your Own Filament for Multi-Color!

OK lets get things right here. colour mix and or gradient is not done at design its done at manufacture. The PRINTER prints the colours you put in and that's done via GCODE not the STL. Fusion exports as an STL or OBJ and neither of those formats can handle colour.
You will need to Slice your STL and export into GCODE then run the Sliced GCODE through to get a gradient or do it manually. Manually comes down to 3 ways, 1. Edit the GCODE in a text editor or 2. if the printer has the capability you can set a gradient setup from the printer display. and number 3 is sit watching each layer go down and manually move the mix %.

you can design anything in any colour using any colours you want but what you put into the Printer is what you get out.

2 colour mix printers like the A10M use 2 extruders and 1 head and allow a mix of colours an gradient. This is the closest type of printer that I think will get the results you desire.

Duel head printers allow 2 different coloured prints but NO MIX or gradient.

single head multi coloured prints can be achieved as per the process I mentioned at the beginning.

you can get 3 colour printers but as I done have one of those I cant comment.

as for the above filament that's just a filament and you will have very little control over the final colour as it depends on your printer, where in the colour bands you start, layer height, print speeds, flow, temp and size of print. you will struggle to recreate identical models.

2 distinct colour prints have to be done by 2 separate STL files so that can be done in Design.

I have a GEEETECH A10M and would recommend it but only if you have a good understanding of 3D printing as its a bitch of a printer to learn on.

Please. Listen. To. Me!
I'm not trying to design a slinky for two color printing. Haven't you ever seen filament that slowly transitions from one color to the next? I'm trying to design a way to print this. The concept is that it prints in a spiral, going upwards, like the slinky I linked to.That way, if you pause the print and swap the filament halfway through the print, your printed filament will have a gradient before the color change.

ok I am LISTENING your just not hearing me back.
YOU CANNOT DESIGN COLOUR FOR 3d PRINTING IN FUSION. when you export an STL it is Colourless.
To do what you want above will be done after you design and export from FUSION
the closest I can think within fusion is creating multiple components in fusion and then exporting them individually into your slicer and allocating different extruders to those but your slicer has to support this as does your printer nothing to do with Fusion

COLOUR allocation, gradients and all that are done in your Slicer, Gode and or your printer (which I have been trying to tell you).
I was merely trying to tell you what your options are but obviously you don't listen to someone who prints with multi colour printers.

I suggest you find a group for your 3d printer brand and your choice of Slicer and ask the question there.

Not trying to color the STL. I'm trying to create printable filament which can be printed as one part, and then manually swap the color halfway through printing the new filament. This will create random transitions in the color of prints where the printed filament is used.


someone has already done the design it for you. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3565827

use that and do your changes.

only think I will say about printing your own filament is I would be suspect of the diameter and you will more than likely get more than 0.05+/- on the diameter which will impact your subsequent prints

personally id save your time and stress and buy this

3D-Printable Filament! -Print Your Own Filament for Multi-Color!

But Turbo_Sunshine's filament contains two colors at once, not a gradient from one to the other. That's why I'm trying to print it in an upwards spiral which can separate after the fact; if you swap the colors while printing my idea, it transitions before switching from one color to the next.
And yes, I do realize that I could just buy the stuff and save some hassle. However, then it becomes a specialized roll that I rarely use except for printing display pieces. This way, I can make the filament when I need it, and in the exact colors and materials I want.

personally im thinking your making life difficult but use the turbosinshine Slice it as one colour first before designing anything yourself. Prove the concept works first before stressing.

Print it and just go by eye when you change and use the Display on the printer to pause the print and change the roll the first time and then see how it works when reprinting.

would be interested to see your results.

I'll probably use the cut and follow on methods as my printer seems to get a slight layer shift every time I do a pause/resume print.

tried running octoprint? i control my printers with that now and pausing and resuming is seamless.

It's a firmware issue. Creality firmware homes the printer every time you do a pause or resume. I'm upgrading to Klipper so I'll fix that myself.

It's a firmware issue. Creality firmware homes the printer every time you do a pause or resume. I'm upgrading to Klipper so I'll fix that myself.

i cant use klipper on my A10m but i had considered it for my Ender2. but so far thats printing great so not wanting to fek with it. thats still stock firmware.

My a10m is running custom Marlin 1.1.8 but the Gt2560V3 is a pain for klipper