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Heat creep and PLA

by jasonsaffle13

So I have been having problems with heat creep.I added an extra sleaved fan to the fins of my printhead, and I also turned the "stock" fan around to pull the air through better. But for some reason my slicer (cura) keeps cutting my fan speed off for the first layer and %50 for all others. I have looked around in cura and found no reason for it. I have looked for M106 (fan on) or M107 and do not find it. I started to dig into Marlin and thought screw it just ran them to the 12 volt out of the power supply so they spin full blast all the time. I will look into printing a new effoctor/mount with multiple fans since I would like one on my print as well. Any one else have this issue and what was your fix. PLA at 195 (185 make it to thick/cool). I will also duble check my extruder steps per mm to verify I am not trying to push to much but prints look great!! (well in cura in slic3r I am have poor layer and this odd thing of smacking into the second layer on some models).
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1005917

Kossel Delta effector E3Dv6 hotend fan and part cooling thingie
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What are your improvements?

by docpayce

Hey all!

I got a Folgertech Kossel 2020 Rev B for christmas and just started out printing some stuff. I am really impressed with what you get for your buck but still see A LOT of room for improvement.

What did you change on yours? What improvements are mandatory in your opinion?

For me, the most pressing matters were/are:

Done:

  • I fixed the M3 nylon nuts on the hotend holder (the PLA part) with some superglue - so installing a hotend is way less of a nightmare now.
  • The same goes for the M3 nylon nuts under the heated bed.

Will do:

  • Glass bed on top of the heated aluminium bed (already ordered): The aluminium bed is aaaawfully bumpy. I will put a glass bed on top and hold it in place with clips. For that I will have to countersink the screwholes in the aluminium bed so that they are flush.
  • Tension springs between the smooth rods to tension them and reduce backlash/looseness.
  • Tension spring to hold the cable to/from hotend and effector out of the way.
  • Build and attach JCRocholls type of z probe (with the allen key) - like this one (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188477). I tested the inductive probe and it is awfully way off at some places. Compared to z probing with the paper method (nozzle touches bed), I have a deviation of ~ 0.3 mm of the distance between nozzle and inductive probe trigger at different places on the bed. I do think this is because of the PCB below the aluminium. Moreover, the inductive probe is temperature dependant. All in all - nope, not good. (Also it will not be compatible to a glass bed).

Possibly in future:

  • Add fan to cool RAMPS board.
  • e3D Hotend, second extruder + hotend.

Best, Peter!

Mini Kossel Retractable Auto Bed Leveling Probe (for use with larger hotends)
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