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Z Axis Offset Values

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I have a std Creator Pro 2016 and for the past week have been trying to get eSun PetG Natural to stick to the build plate. I have tried all manuf recommended temps for both extruder (230-250) and bed (55 - 80). Im doing a 200mm purge before printing at 10mm\s first layer onto a glass bed with purple glue stick (.3mm first layer, .2 layer height). The filament tends to ball around the end of the nozzle and any shells that are layed down are easily lifted by the filament blob on the extruder at subsequent passes.
PLA and ABS print fine with the current Z offset of zero.

One of the suggestions is to move the build plate further away from the nozzle end by changing the Z offset value on the lcd panel pre print.
After reading the explanation of the Z Home Offset on the Sailfish site it appears I need to put a negative value for Z offset to move the plate further away.

Why then when I use jog mode from the lcd panel does Z+ appear below the down arrow, which when pushed moves the plate down?
I have tried negative values from -.02 to -.1 and the build plate hasnt hit the nozzle but there was no change in first layer adhesion either. Im reluctant to put too large a positive value for Z offset for fear of a crash into the nozzle. I could not discern a difference in behavior with each additional -.02 increment I tried so am still unsure if it should be a positive or negative value.

Do I use a negative value for Z offset to move the build plate further away from the nozzle on the CP2016 LCD panel?

I pretty much only print in PETG and ABS
i use hairspray for both and 99.999% of the time it just works.
bed 70 deg for PETG
a not too heavy coat of hairspray while the bed is warm.
I just use Coles brand extra hold hairspray. (cheapest stuff around)
I just keep moving the job around the bed for fresh spray each print or
another very light spray between prints.
but make that first layer nice and slow!
I don't use anything else but S3D.

Thanks. The Coles hairspray is the bit I have been looking for. I have some Fructis #5 I will try first.

Hello, I use S3D with my CP and the settings I find successful are:

1) Add builders' tape to glass and apply a layer of glue stick - this seems to work every time
2) Bed temp 75C
3) First layer height 100% (whereas PLA is 90%) this should address your Z offset issue in a different way, I think
4) Extruder 230-235C
5) Fan on from layer 2
6) Speed 50 mm/s


I print with my creator pro using eSun PETG quite often, I had little luck using S3d when printing PETG so went back to flash print and have had good luck. standard leveling technique. I use blue painters tape with some glue.

layer: .15
1st layer: .2
E Temp: 245
Bed: 60
Base Speed 50mm/s
Travel 80 mm/s
Min 5mm/s
1st Layer 10 mm/s
Retract 1.3mm
Speed 30 mm/s

Shells 2
Overlap 30%

Top Solid Layers 5
Bottom Solid Layers 3
Fill 50%Fill Pattern Triangle
Overlap 40%

Pre Extrusion 120mm

**I should note I have replaced the nozzles with all metal

I tried so many different settings from A LOT of people online and your settings were the ones that did the trick! I found that with small parts I had to put a 5mm brim to make sure they stuck, but works a treat. Thanks, you saved me from the furstation where I chuck the printer out the window :D

I used the hexagon fill pattern(just cause I liked it, it seems fine) and the default 30% overlap where I didn't see much difference.

For my small part I needed a 0.1mm layer height, and had my first layer set to 0.2mm. Used a brim at 5mm.
For the bigger part I used 0.2mm layer height and 0.25mm first layer.

With these i didn't use any tape, just a glass bed and put 2 passes of Pritt stick. I washed the glass till perfectly clean, put it back on the bed, then levelled the bed with the paper passing under the nozzle and being able to feel a verryyy slight amount of friction, much less compared to what I have for PLA. I then put a full pass of glue stick in the horizontal direction evenly, then a second pass in the vertical direction(the pass direction order doesn't matter, I think you just need to make sure there are no glue gaps which is why multiple even passes really helps). Hope this helps peeps! :)

These finally came out puuuurfect!

Again thanks a bunch xo

Thanks for the settings. Ill try them with the clear petg

Do you mean a 0.3mm and 0.2mm layer height? (I hope so... I don't know of any consumer 3D printer that could successfully do 0.02 layer height... you'd need a VERY fine nozzle diameter...0.04? Most nozzles are 0.4mm.)

Anyway, I've never had luck getting PETG (or ABS) to stick to glue stick. On the other hand, it works great sticking to hair spray (for me.) My settings for "inland" PETG (which is rebranded eSun):

  • glass build surface with hair spray
  • build plate at 85 or 90C
  • extruder at 240C

I also configure S3D to add an additional 0.04mm to the z-offset. (Not 0.4, but 0.04. This just gives it a very tiny bit of extra room on the first layer. Unlike ABS/PLA, you don't want the first layer of PETG to be squeezed down.)

My printer is currently a FFCP that's using a different controller board (not sailfish), but I used pretty much the same settings when I was still running sailfish firmware.

In your case, I'd start by switching to hair spray. Then I'd level the build plate. 90% of the time I had a bad first layer with PETG, it was due to not having the build plate levelled properly. (The other 10% was when I'd try to use purple glue sticks.)

Thanks for your settings and pointing out the typo.
As yet I havent seen a recommended brand of hairspray that works and is available here in Australia. Over $70 to import a can of Aquanet.
Anyone in AUs know of a brand available locally?

ABS sticks fine to glue on glass for me. I just printed with another brand red petg with the same settings and it stuck well to glue on glass so I suspect the esun clear petG is particularly fussy when it comes to settings.

My build plate is level and I currently have a negative Z offset of -0.04 set on the creator pro itself.
My main question was about setting the offset on the CP lcd panel as my slicer doesnt have an option to set it in the software.

When using the lcd panel do I set a negative or positive offset to move the build plate further away from the nozzle?

I currently ONLY print with PLA at the moment, but have fabulous results with 3DLAC spray. Far better than hairspray as it's designed for 3D printing - but obviously more expensive - because of the same.

Is it available in Australia?

Thanks, it looks good but unfortunately not readily available here either.

That's a massive shame . . . .

When using the lcd panel do I set a negative or positive offset to move the build plate further away from the nozzle?

I honestly can't answer that. I didn't use the LCD panel for that when I was using sailfish. Hopefully, someone else will pop in and answer. :)

Good luck!