Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

NEED SUGGESTIONS

creality_ender_3 Ender3 Ender_3 Ender_3_Pro

Please Login to Comment

Ok I am in need of some suggestions for the community guide. I think I have covered most of the important aspects of the troubleshooting the ender 3 and variants.

So now I call on you all for you ideas, things you wish were easier to find information on, or things you experienced and fixed, CORRECTLY, yourself that you could not find information on.

I am looking information regarding issue resolution, verified and reasonable mod (none of the normal stuff like petsfang, bullseye, etc. No z stabilizers crap ( I wont get into why they should not be used, and I'm not going to debate the fact as to why you shouldn't. Look it up for yourselves). I want mods that only increase quality, be it slightly or greatly. I am personally working on a front side z stabilizer system for the ender 3, as there are basically 0 for it. Some say there is no need, but i beg to differ when the machine is performing quick and short infill lines, I get a lot of vibration high in the z axis, but still a considerable amount even in the lower region of the build space.

So drop me a reply or a PM I will look to getting it added.

for mods and issue fixes. I will need to know why it is need, what it accomplishes and how, and an example of the before and after results. A brief explanation will be needed, as I do not have ESP.

If anyone has prusa slicer profiles as well that would be GREAT, as we have no community profiles in the guide for that slicer. Hell I need some for quite a few different slicers, for all material types. Need an ABS profile, TPU, etc etc.

To compare your knowledge to what I have here is a link to the guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574369

Looking forward to see what you all have to offer. I need you help as much as the next with this. It may not seem like it, but I'm still a newb to 3d printing only been printer consistently for 6 months, with a total of 8 months from the first moment I turned on my first printer (anet a8). I just took the time to read and research everything I could about 3d printing before hand. I read more and more everyday, test thing with my printers almost everyday. I literally spend about 8 hours a day doing research if nothing else, then another 4- 8 hours doing both R&D. So I spend nearly 12-16 hours a day just bettering myself in regards to FDM machines.

Does this make me better than the next person, but it does make me better than I was the day before little by little.

And as always.... HAPPY PRINTING FELLOW MAKERS

ENDER 3/ Ender 3 Pro/ Ender 3X TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE AND HOW TO REQUEST HELP
by SHENKOE

Some advice about getting good quality replacement print nozzles, and when you should replace a nozzle would be helpful.
Also tips on how not to damage your nozzle.
Ex: Don't use your parts cutter to snip the little bit of filament hanging off the end of your nozzle. Who's done this? Raising my own hand. Think just about everyone has made this mistake.

Suggestions about which nozzle size to use for which projects. When is a good time to use a 0.2 or smaller nozzle, when is a good time to use a 0.8 or 1.0 nozzle.

Thank you for all your efforts making this user guide for the Ender 3 Community.

OOOOOOOK. Nozzles are a pain in the ass to suggest, unless you spend real money for a nozzle I really do not suggest any. I have yet to have to change my nozzles. Second I only use steel and hardened steel nozzles, which in turn affect printing temps. I would basically be gathering info from google regarding nozzles. That is not something I really want to do. Most of what I post I have had previous experience with. I will still make the section, but it will be more of a "hey go read this", instead of a "hey this is what I think about these nozzles.

The other points about the do's and dont's of nozzle care and damage prevention, I can definitely say a lot about that. Im kinda a nozzle Nazi, regarding cleaning and PMC

Some of what you said is good information I didn't know. I just thought the Steel Nozzle only helped you when using the abrasive filaments, not that they last so much longer for PLA or ABS.
I've been printing almost daily now for 9 months and if I start having a print issue on a file I've already dialed in, then I first check my bed level and if that doesn't help, I swap out the nozzle and re-level the bed again. I've replaced the nozzle on my Ender 3 4 times now. Not including switching sizes. I even keep the old nozzle so I can try a figure out what happened to it. Wear, debris in the filament (actual chunk of white powdery stuff jammed inside the nozzle), poor tool choice, bad karma?

Maybe add in tips for doing a Cold Pull for unplugging and cleaning your nozzle
Does expensive Cleaning Filament actually help keep your nozzle healthy?

Thank you again for all your time and work for the community of Ender 3 users.

Cold pulls, nozzle clean NH and such is all within links on the troubleshooting section. I may have to make it separate, as its own subsection. O remember now why I didn't go to far into nozzles, and that because it's more generic to 3d printer I NV general and information NV is every where. But again I will do something regarding nozzles to the guide. Thanks for the input, and much appreciated.

I don't really like the bed leveling procedure, because it basically adjusts the distance between nozzle and bed to something like 0.2 mm (paper thickness) while the printer thinks the distance is 0 mm. The result is that you have to adjust later or adjust your first layer flow.

More about my thinking and my (hopefully better) procedure can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/10vsq-cN722SfCyX4edZYfuxIOAc-E5zJBaB7jsbepQI

And, by the way, in case I've convinced you: Of course you're free to use the instructions in the guide.

I will definitely add this to the guide. Well defined and explained as to what needs to be done, and why you are doing it. I'm never one to do it because someone said so. I need results and reasons to even consider something, before trying it out myself.

As I only have access to what's provided only, which is all the same crap. I have bed leveling procedures linked in the guide and this will be a great addition and is completely viable in practice. I personally use a 3-point leveling system with no springs and a dead locked bed, which does not move ever. check it out here https://www.thingiverse.com/make:665197 & https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770 (these are my ender's with the modified bed setup).

I used these two things to complete the conversion https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722 & https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460

This design and setup I can say I would swear by them and denounce any form of "normal" bed leveling. But it is all due to machines being sent out with sub and incorrectly designed bed designs. The bed leveling doc I link is in the guide and also the print model for the bed conversion.

Again thanks for the input

Simple Ender 3 mod for 3-point tramming
by rrwrex
Hot Bed Leveling and 3-Point Mounting
Simple Ender 3 mod for 3-point tramming
by SHENKOE
Hot Bed Leveling and 3-Point Mounting
by SHENKOE

A pretty simple bed "upgrade" for me was to completely cover the heated base with a 0.5mm thick silicon thermal transfer pad. It is very thin, very tacky, material. No adhesives are used & it is easily removed if desired. I bought a 400mm x 210mm sheet (like here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9HGKR1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) so I did a bit of cut & fit. It does take some care as the material is very limp & tender once the backing material is removed.

I lay my glass bed directly on the pad and there is no need for any clips or other retension mechanism. The glass just sits there. Friction from the tacky surface holds the glass very firmly in place, there is no potential for shifting during prints.

The glass can still be easily removed, it just takes breaking the suction between silicon & glass. I just use the metal parts spatula, inserting the edge a bit at a corner, between glass & silicon, and then giving it a slight, easy, twist. Once the air gets under the glass it can be slowly lifted away from the pad.

I like not having any clips to potentially snag my hot end or ABL probe & the silicon pad promotes even, efficient, heat transfer from the heated base plate to the glass print surface.

well add this once I create a mods section for the guide.

what is this ABL thing you speak of.... just kidding. If you were to do a bed conversion you would not need any ABL devices EVER. d\Deadlocked 3 -point bed, printer trammed and squared. nothing out of aligned, perfect first layers everytime. And with a dead locked bed system you never have to level, unles you fck'd with the bed or you do crazy stuff like me and knock prints of the bed surface through octoprint with your hotend assembly. I have since stopped that after messing up my leveled surface.... last week.

but if you have it working dont fuck with it. use your own system that works for you

wish I knew about this before I lined my heatbed with row after row of thermal tape used on heatsink. Yea I hate the idea of clips and losing out on printable area of my bed. A 235x235mm available area, is like campbell's soup "MMM MMM GOOD!!!"