Creality 3D Printers and Accessory Deals
Creality 3D Printers
Creality3D Ender-3 - Banggood
The infamous Ender 3 has become the new standard in quality FDM printing with a price that is easy to swallow.
It features V-Slot bearings, fast printing, and large build volume (220x220x250mm). The Ender-3 is suitable for beginers and the go-to machine for pros.
$9.99 off with code: En33D02
Creality 3D Ender-3 with glass bed + 5x nozzles - Gearbest
The Ender-3 with a tempered glass build plate and 5x 0.4mm nozzles.
Creality3D Ender-3 Pro - Banggood
This is the Ender-3 with a few upgrades including more ridgid 40x40 Y-Axises and removable cMagnetic platform.
$14 off with code: En3P01
Creality3D Ender-5 - Banggood
The newest member of the Ender series. A large build volume of 220x220x300mm, a box frame, (power) resume printing function, detachable Cmagnetic build plate, east leveling and 350W Landy power supply.
$20 off with code:en3d501
Creality 3D CR-X - Banggood
Color touch screen, larger printing size (300x300x400mm), dual extrusion system with a single nozzle and three fans to help cool extruded filament and improve consistency in layering.
$50 off with code:en3d501
Creality 3D LD-001 Desktop - Banggood
Desktop LCD Light-curing 3D Printer, 120x70x120mm, 3.5" color touch screen, WiFi and automatic leveling
$30 off with code:LD3D01
3D Printer Accessories
Upgraded Long-Distance Remote Metal Extruder Kit For Creality CR-10 3D Printer - Banggood
Replace your plastic Creality 3D extruder with this Metal Aluminium Anodised kit to improve performance and print quality. It has 5 star rating from more than 200 reviews of this product.
Creality 3D BL-Touch Heated Bed Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit (upgraded version) - Banggood
No more dorking around with trying to level your build plate when you install this unit.
$7 off with code: crmb01
BIQU TL-Smoothers Addon Module For 3D Printer Motor Drivers - Banggood
While protect your motors and electronics while delivering smoother movement with less vibration for better quality prints.
Creality 3D Flexible Magnetic Build Plate - Banggood
Say goodbye to prints jobs that stick to the build plate. Throw your scraper away with this upgrade.
$2.41 off with code: crbs3D01
Prices and delivery times are dependent upon the warehouse selected so choose accordingly.
Creality3D Ender 3 Thingiverse group
Having problems with your Ender3? See Ender 3 Troubleshooting
For the latest deals visit Creality 3D Printers and Accessory Deals
Visit Banggood or Gearbest for a huge selection of affordable products and components for the Maker.
I've got a little "thunk thunk" sound when I manually pushed the bed back and forth. So I tightened the Y belt tension and it made it "snag" a little more in two or three spots so I may have tightened too much. I ran my printer with it tightened like that and it printed for the most part. Got lots of "boogers" of filament and then it seemed to seize up on the Y axis but Z and X axis worked fine.
I then loosened the Y belt and the thunk is back but not really snagging on the motor and I did check the belt while I had it loosened up but I didn't remove it to do a full inspection. Still getting filament globs on the first layers so I stopped the prints as I need those first layers.
My silicone sock keeps wanting to fall down off the hotend once it gets hot so I either have to find some way to fix that or get a different brand of sock as that might be part of the glob problem.
So I'm wondering if I should replace the Y axis motor or if I should add belt tensioners to it. My Ender 3 is about 4 years old (bought in 2018) so it's not a "pro" or "V2" or anything else - just a plain old Ender 3. And while I did put a new belt on the Y axis about a year ago, all the stepper motors are still stock motors so I'm wondering if the motor should be replaced due to how old it is even though it's still (mostly) working?
On a different note : I did buy a new extruder motor because I thought a previous problem might be the motor but it turned out that wasn't the case so I'm also wondering if I should hold onto that one (since that motor seems to be working just fine) or if I should send it back?
Okay I found out what was wrong with the printer refusing to print - the extruder gear had DROPPED and wasn't in place any more. I put my glasses on and had a light directly on the gear and finally noticed that the gear wasn't in place. Seems that the screws had vibrated out and it fell down. Long story short, I completely replaced the gear with a new one (also have spares in case it happens again) as I think the screws must have been striped out and wouldn't tighten down like they should. So if you can manually push filament through but it seems like the gear isn't pushing it through then you might want to check if the gear is where it's supposed to be.
I got ahold of a spool of bad ABS filament (Amazon Basics – they were out of the HatchBox I usually get) and now I need to do something with an ENTIRE spool of brittle filament. Luckily I was able to get a refund due to it being brittle but now I have almost a full spool of filament I can’t print with. Anyone got any suggestions of what I can use it for? Other than making it into ABS slurry that is – I’ve got plenty of scrap ABS that I have to do that with.
And on top of that Twitchy (my printer) is still refusing to print even though I got a new spool of HatchBox ABS to use and I’m about to scream at it as I can’t figure out why!
I changed the nozzle three times with the bad filament and releveled the bed five times. I haven’t changed to a new nozzle for the HatchBox yet but I’ve releveled it twice so I’m certain it’s level. I even double checked that the machine itself was level with a torpedo level.
So here’s what I’ve done:
1) I tightened all M4 nuts underneath the bed on the leveling wheels (I replaced the springs to the better ones back in 2019 when I first put the nuts on).
2) The bed had a slight wobble so I got that out by tightening the wheels underneath on the Y axis plate thing. No wobble now and moves smoothly.
3) Tightened the X axis plate wheels that hold the hotend to be sure there was no wobble there. That one had a slight wobble too.
4) I checked the Bowden tube end going into the hotend to be sure it was seated securely and not creeping up – both of the Pneumatic fittings are good (replaced that and the other end to higher grade ones back in 2020) . There is no clog there and the nozzle butts up against it properly. I replaced the stock Bowden tube with a Capricorn one back in 2020 and I’ve also checked that the tube isn’t clogged.
5) I don’t have tensioners on the X and Y axis but I did loosen and retighten both to be sure the tension was good on them. I also replaced the belt on the Y axis in January 2022.
6) I replaced the stock extruder to the upgraded Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed Extruder in 2020 so I checked for filament dust or grinding on the filament – it didn’t have either.
I use the glass bed upgrade with the black “textured” stuff (can’t remember what it’s called) and I even cleaned the bed but still can’t get the filament to stick to it unless I manually push the filament through the extruder then it only sticks if I keep manually pushing it through. I also keep Twitchy in a (heavy duty) glass and wood enclosure and run the bed at 115 with the nozzle at 240. I know these temps are a little high but these really work for me. I still use the spool holder mounted to the top rail but I also have filament guide and a board fan guard in addition to keeping an air purifier inside the enclosure. I also have a hook I have positioned to hold the cable that used to be attached to the Bowden tube away from the bed instead of a cable chain.
I use Cura 4.11 with no upgrades on that for my slicing and everything else aside from above upgrades are still stock parts – I don’t even know how to get into the E-steps as I can’t find the right menu option for it. Also I can’t connect the printer to my computer via USB or WiFi so I rely on the mini SD card port for inputting the gcodes, though I do have a Micro SD card extension cable as that tiny port was a pain to put in and remove the card.
I’ve checked everything I can think of and still get underextrusion and Twitchy was printing just fine on the spool before the bad one so the only thing that changed was I got a brittle spool in between two good spools but I still can’t print. So what step am I missing?
Pretty much summed up in subject! I’ve checked the power cord and connections, and I’ve turned it off and back on. It just keeps blinking when it is turned on. The screen stays black for about 3 seconds, then lights up for about .25 seconds. Is there and easy fix or should I upgrade to the V2? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have been printing with my CTC Dual Bizer for several years now. Started having problems with this and that failing so I tried going with a new printer.
What I am have is this:
1: I bought one of the "used" Ender 3, (it was a returned model but looks like it was put together, tried out, didn't like and returned it). I went with a new motherboard, (silent 32bit V2). I loaded "Ender3 V2-4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin 2.0.1-BL-Touch-V1.1.1(without adapter board)" firmware.
2: I added CL-Touch auto bed level and direct drive nozzle.
3: I have checked all of the bolts and nuts to be sure everything is straight, not too tight or loose, and all that good stuff.
The problem I am having is this:
1: I start it up and go to home axis and it goes to the middle of the bed, lowers until the CL-Touch gets to the bed, raises up then stops. It displays all the numbers on the screen. I then go to level the bed, it moves to the left front corner, then the middle front, then the right front corner, then goes backwards to the middle, (but stays on the right hand side), it makes the next three calculations from that position and after the first calculations tries to go right for the next 2 calculations, but won't because it is already as far over as it can go. Then it goes backwards, still on the right side and repeats what it did in the middle.
I can't figure out why it is doing this. Do I have the incorrect firmware installed or is it maybe something else?
2: I can't seem to get my computer to "install" so it can be used from the USB cable. I go to Device Manager and try to update the driver and it says it is the most current driver, but still has a "?" beside it. The boxes that a video and article said that should pop up so I can put in info never popped up either. So I can't assign it to a port as it never let me do that. Not sure why not. (BTW: I do still have my computer so I can use my older CTC printer. Maybe it is causing a conflict?)
I am running Windows 10 Pro for my computer. If you need any more details, please ask and I will fill them in.
Any help with all of these problems would be a great help. Thank you so much!!!