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MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

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CreativeDesignCompo!

by TSP_Project

Welcome to the 3D Design competition

All you have to do is design a 3D Printed object, The object you design must at least fit one the themes :
I know this might not be massively relevant to this group but I hope some people might want to take part :).

Puzzle Challenge
Lamp That!
Collaborative Design.
Summer
Life Hack
Injury Assistance
Electronics
Wheels!

Designs will be judged on : (Originality, Printability, the element of surprise)

The finalists will be released before the announcement of the winners to give the Community an opportunity to share their favourites in the comments, discuss concerns, and allow time for any testing or analysis. Feedback will be taken into consideration when picking the winners.

The Design must be uploaded to this THINGIVERSE group : https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/thedesignchallenge
More Info,Rules & FAQ here : https://tinylink.net/a4a6l

DATES :

Final submission : 20th of May.

Finalist Reveal : 25th of May.

Winners Reveal : 30th of May.

Prizes :

Amazon vouchers :

1st Place : $50

2nd Place : $20

3rd Place : $20

Good Luck!

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Replace Zrib mosfet or replace Zrib?

by Ayrzee

Hi all. I purchased a something called an EG4 XL which is an upgraded Tronxy X3S by a company out of Montreal, Canada.
Safer as I can get warranty and support, right? Lmao! Nope!
I know. Save it. I know better now! Lol
Description:
Zrib board with Ramps 1.4 and an ATmega2560 as the brains.
24volt 360w psu, pushing a 330 X 330 heated bed.

Problem:
I really took my time to do it all right but when I started it up and tried to level the bed the hot bed turned on and all the white smoke that makes the mosfet work came wafting out within seconds. Shut off immediately.
I will go back over everything and make sure all is good. No shorts etc. Again!
But, what would the next step be if it was you?
Would you replace the 855nf mos with a better one? Replace the whole board? Throw the damn thing in the garbage and buy a different printer?
This is my first 3d printer but for the life of me I cant see the mosfet genie escaping for no reason. I just cant find the reason.
Any advice or answers to the above questions would be appreciated. Thanks.

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The Filtering questions of MAX9926

by kynix

Good day,everyone~

We are using a IC-- MAX9926 from Maxim Integrated to filter 2 VR signals (from a HONDAS2000 Crank and Cam VR sensors) One being 24 tooth, and one being 3 tooth (per cycle of the Engine). At RPMs below approx 5000-6000 the signal comes through the 9926 fine, and triggers the MCU correctly such that it decodes it fine. At around this RPM we start to get extra/missing teeth on the IRQ lines to the MCU. Note we can 'push through' this noise and get to 9k RPM - just seems to be a 5-6K RPM issue...
MAX9926 Datasheet: http://www.kynix.com/uploadfiles/pdf2286/MAX9926UAEE2fV2b_13987.pdf

Well,We also used a scope to capture the signals at the entrance of the ECU to rule out electrical noise.
The signals are smooth and clear at both idle, AND when hitting the point the ECU loses sync due to the 'phantom' teeth. The scope doesen't show these phantom teeth so I am assuming it is a 9926 issue, or the parts R1, R2, C1, R3, R4, C26. The only difference between perfect idle signal and higher speed 'issue' signal is the frequency of the wave, and its amplitude, as shown in the plots. We have 50v P-P at high speed and around 20v P-P at low speed.

1) Maybe I should and how could I attenuate both signals say by half? (Adding what, where) 2) Should I reduce the value of C1/C26 as they might be acting as a filter?

With regard to (2) if I keep the throttle down and 'push through' the noise the engine will regain sync and run all the way to 9k RPM without issue, so that is also odd!

As a result,
Low speed, IRQs passed via 9926 so perfectly !

View Comment

Lab Power Supply

by Kanata

I have made a variable voltage power supply from an old computer atx, but as I am doing more precision electronics projects, I would Like to buy a Lab power supply.
I would like to spend about $100 - $150.
I would appreciate any advice before I buy one.
Thanks

View Comment

Switches and 12v regulated psus

by LayZ1307

I'm wanting to purchase either :
12v 3a switches or
12v 5a switches (more expensive same thing)

To replace something similar to this :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:947676

Power switch -1 pc (rated 250V 1A, for mounting hole 13x19mm)

The fact that his power switch is rated 1a makes no sense to me. Does this mean my 3a switch model could replace this switch in the same build? Or should I stick with 5a like the psu will be rated? (I have 5a and 30a psus both of which I want to switch on and off).

ToyREP Power Supply Cover
by thorgal
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Right place to ask LED wiring questions?

by ukcat

I am very new to LED wiring in my 3D printing projects and need some advice on the one I am now attempting. Is this the correct forum to ask?

If yes, the pic roughly shows what I have and what I am attempting. Three strings of four LED bulbs that I want to wire through a switch and (hopefully) power with a 9V battery.

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Main board almost caught fire?

by Fallen_Empire99

So I was luckily up when i started to smell smoke and stuff off my printers main board then hear popping and fizzling, luckily they're sending me out a new mainboard for the printer but the thing is less then a month old and I was wondering what part of the PCB this is that went bad, any help appreciated I'm just skeptical about the new one they're sending too and want to see if I should do anything to try to prevent this, I already on this one went over all the voltage with a multi-meter and made sure it was ll correct so I don't know what could of caused it but it does look like its the part that connects to the heated bed correct me if Im wrong, and also sorry if this is the wrong forum to post this..Board is Zrib V5 by Zonestar on the Z9 printer

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Help Hunting down a head

by jedimasta

I was randomly browsing the board last week when I came across a user who'd created an animatronic head framework with multiple articulation points. I left the tab open, but an untimely windows update and consequent cache clearing has left my searching for it again. I've run a bunch of varied searched and still can't find what I'm looking for.

There were a couple of defining characteristics: the base mouth had an array of mounting holes. The jaw could articulate in two different places to create frowns or smiles. The user linked to a video if the whole thing singing, I'm pretty sure by way of an Arduino, Old Macdonald's farm, though I can't be sure. I've done a few searches on youtube as well and didn't find what I was looking for.

Has anyone seen this around, maybe saved the link somewhere? Could you link it? I'd really love to adapt the framework to my project but I can't seem to find the dern thing.

Thanks!

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Smoothieboard - static resets the printer

by CVMichael

I posted on the smoothieware forum, but the forum is not very active, and I am not getting any answers. So I thought to try it here.
The problem I have is that static electricity resets the Smoothieboard. So once I start printing I am afraid to touch the printer because there is a chance it might reset. This did not happen before with previous boards I used (Arduino, and RE-ARM that I used to have on the same printer). My printer is a custom build 400mm cube print area, T-Slot aluminum frame, and I have the ground wire attached to the aluminum frame.
Do I have to attach the ground to the Smoothieboard? how to fix this?

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