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Need help on how to print this large part on my CR-10 S5

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Hey Everyone!

I need to print about a dozen of this part. As you will see in the photo, it's about 15.9" across the corners and 5" tall.
I just purchased my CR-10 S5 and i'm running Cura 4.1 w/ the Creawesome mod.
I'm using PLA from Coex and 1.0mm tip to hopefully print this part as quickly as possible.
I did a 0% infill and made the first 15 or so layers solid so that it was strong where the screws are for mounting to the wall.
After about 5-6 layers, pretty much all the corners lifted on the build. I had the tip temp at 225 and the bed at 60.

What can i do to get this to stick better?
I was printing on bare glass that was cleaned with alcohol...do i need to use something else?

Hi

I see you have received many tips already. I put my experience in this doc if that can help:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3762782

I think the secret is in having the best repeatable first layer. Not everything is perfect with Cura and Creawsome mod. I started from there and tweaked to my own taste. My Cura config is also in my doc, and is based on the Creawsome ones.

In any case, if you have not an accurate bed leveling mesh, you’ll not help yourself with big parts. I went for a BLTouch and I have significant variations between corners. In my opinion you cannot achieve a good first layer for a large part without bed leveling mesh.

Once you’ve this, then the rest is tweaking the first layer: increase temp, increase width, increase flow, and test test test :)

Cheers,
B.

Ultimate guide for installing a CR-10 S5 printer from scratch

I think you are pushing the limits here and the result will not be as good as you want it to be. This is for several reasons.

First of all, the heated bed of the S5 is only partially heated, (35x35cm, i think, unless they changed it recently), and so you have a bed that is always cooler at the edges, leading to warping in many cases.
a large brim, 10 to 15 perimeters wide and then , while it is printing the 2nd and further layers, you can improve the adhesion by adding Kapton tape the the brim and the glass, be careful not to disturb the movement of the bed....

Secondly, your design here leads to an enormous amount of retractions, restarts, moves in open air and a lot of small moves that the S5 is not really good at.... the weight and size of the bed is not helping here.

So even if you are able to make it stick along the whole perimeter, you will very likely end up with those small holes looking awful, with blobs and stringing, and a lot of ringing around each hole and corner due to the bed's mass.

I have a S4 and while i have it really well tuned in for PETG, I see the limits with my slightly smaller version, so I can foresee that your S5 will not print any better.

As Steadirob points out the heater that comes with the S5 is terrible. It only covers the middle of the bed. You can get one that covers the entire bed with or without a separate controller. It made a huge difference for me especially printing PETG. I could not get it to stay down in the corners of even small builds if they were not in the center of the bed. Also 225 seems a little high to me for print temp. I print a lot of minis and I use 198-203. You are using a much larger nozzle so maybe a higher temp to ensure complete melt may be required. The biggest issue with the S5 is the glass is definitely not flat. Makes it difficult for very large prints.

My local glass and mirror shop cut a nice 1/4" glass for mine for US$25 - very reasonable considering. And $14 for my 400x400 Tronxy.

Put about 7 ring brim around it as well.

The back machine is a CR10s-5 with 1/4" glass. Good machine. Takes a while to really dial it in. I use anything between a .6 and 1.5 nozzle depending on the job. But don't let your speed sacrifice quality. There is no point wasting 12 hours when a 15hour print would have been superior. That Battlestar Galactica helmet was 5days 14hours. You get used to it taking time.

I don't use goo glue spray or tape for PETG or PLA. But it takes while to get your settings that dialed in. Its important to do a good build and not racing through it. That has to include traming and flattening the bed and generally shimming it with tape between the bed and the glass until you have a truly flat glass surface.

Clean the glass with 95%+ isopropal. Not that cheap 50% from Walmart. Just means 50% is residue.

200° / 65° for PLA
250° / 75° for PETG
is a good place to start adjusting for your machine, material, color, extruder etc.
Do the "initial layer" maybe 10° hotter to get a gooey melt sticking to the surface.

As for your settings...
0% infil? Are you using enough perimters to make the walls solid then? I mean, you're not trying to make that hollow walled are you?

pretty much all the corners lifted on the build.
I'm going to bet your bed is warped high in the middle. But since you have no middle in your model, raise the bed up a few tenths.
Maybe raise the bed temp to 65-ish.

If nothing else... Hit up Amazon for "Magigoo". At least while you're learning and getting your machine dialed in.

1) The glass needs to be really clean, if in doubt, wipe again the last run with a dry sheet until you heard some squeaks, that is the sign that you reach the bare glass with no oil on it and avoid touching the glass with bare fingers.
2) Go slow on first layer, even with 5 deg. temp higher for first layer only.
3) raise the bed on all corners just a bit, to squish the first layer.
4) use brim, with 20 lines or so
or
5) if is your design, add just a bit of extensions at each corner, think of them like "supports" against lifting, you'll cut them after or maybe not.

I used to use washable glue stick when printing on glass (that will fix your problem, but also make sure your bed is properly leveled).
Now I use Ultrabase, so I don't need the gluestick.
But just having a properly leveled bed will fix the problem, using glue or tape is the lazy method.

Where can i buy an Ultrabase for my S5 (500mm x 500mm) bed?

Thanks!
I wasn't getting any hits when i searched for S5 Ultrabase.
I didn't realize it was so pricey!! I was hoping Amazon would have it as i don't know if RepRap and Banggood are reputable sites.

Banggood is fine, but you need to search like this "Ultrabase 500x500" or "Ultrabase 510x510" or even "Ultrabase 510*510" to get any results. CR-10 S5 isn't the only printer with that sized bed. This link is the best I can find. But it'll take weeks to get from China to where-ever you are located.

https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ultrabase-5105104mm-Carbon-Silicon-Glass-Plate-Platform-Heated-Bed-Build-Surface-for-CR-10S5-MK2-MK3-Hot-bed-3D-Printer-Part-p-1455527.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

Try using painters tape, cover the area that the part is printed on. Make sure to level the bed again, once you applied the tape to the glass. If the tape does not do the trick for you, you could try again but then use glue stick on top of the tape.
you could use google to find examples, (example: https://youtu.be/Dw7g6IxNBoU)