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CR10 SKR V1.3 Hotend Temp

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I changed my board to a SKR V1.3 Marlin 2.0 bugfix.
Everything works fine, including TFT35, SD card ...
But if I heat up the hotend, it will exceed 5 to 10 degrees and the temperature will fluctuate.
The heatbed temp works well.

I used the stock PID values from the example config and also run a PID Autotune.
The Autotune gets me values far from the original ones.
Also with the new values stored it overshoots and does not hold the temperature.

Make sure that the heating element is screwed in nice and snug into the Controller. If its loose it could be building resistance and that. Fluctuating like that can be a loose Thermistor or one with a wire about to go out. (which is usually what it is on mine). I have the exact controller and I dont think its your code sounds more to me to be one of those two things. If not let me know ill take a look at the code later tonight. (following)

I have now installed a fresh Sensor and got the same issue...
PID Autotune does not bring me good values.
I tuned my PID settings mannually and got closer to the target temp.
Now i have 1 degree +/- fluctuation...
Is there any option to finetune PID. The autotune does not do the Job in 2.0 latest bugfix...

Now i ordered a couple of thermisors to replace and see what happens.

I dont think its the configuration in Marlin because the temperature is dropping to fast 1sec about 3-4 degrees.
So i guess its the temp reading from the termistor.
I use the stock thermistor and heater that came with the printer just switched the board.
So "#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1" should be right.

I will also test to switch the pins for E0 to the E1 pins and see if the fluctuation is the same there.

do you have a silicon sock on the tool? Without one when the blower turns on it can really fluctuate the heat of the tool.

Just forgot... Even when I autotune without fan it's the same...

Yes I have a silicon sock installed...
After autotune I have fluctuations from 3 degree +/- up to 6 +/-.
Tuning manually I get much closer 1 +/-

what you mean by tuning manually? Sorry jsut little confused what auto would be then. Yeah between 1 degree is where it should be no tup and down by 3 which can happen with a loose heating element as well.

I tuned it manually with this guide to get that close.

Before on my melzi board I had not even one degree, that is what I expected from the skr 1.3 board too.
I still try to understand why I can not tune the values as close as on the 8bit board automatically
With let's say 6 +/- you have a range of 12 degree difference in total...

Hmm I have no idea it works, perfect the controller I got. I never had to mess with anything like that on mine. Only time I had to do anythign was when I used a sensor that is different I had to change that in the firmware, but that is a bit obvious that in that case i would need done. Maybe their is something wrong with the controller you have? It works identical for me as the 8 bit controllers.

If you like I would be happy go over and compare whats in my firmware to yours etc etc and that over skype hangouts or something.

Finally I have solved the problem by adding a capacitor to the 5v line on the board today.
Afterwards Autotune gave me good values. Now i have not even one degree of fluctuation.
Im happy that it's not a vaulty firmware or other misstakes :-)
the video on Youtube from Michael from Teaching Tech kame right in time...
Thank you so much for your effort and all your help.

so faulty compacitor on the controller?

I ordered a original Bigtreetech SKR v1.3 - maybe i got a cheap clone... I saw that the MKS boards sometime have the same issue if they are produced with cheap parts...