MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Warped heatbed

Please Login to Comment

So I got the CR10s and the heatbed and the glass is warped.
I got the mirrors from IKEA, they are flat but when i clip them on the heatbed, they warp with the bed.
So i contacted Gearbest and they sent me a replacement heatbed. After about two months of waiting I got the replacement and it is even more warped then my original heatbed. They are both bowl shaped.
If I get a third heatbed, what are the odds that it will be just as warped as the two others?
Does anyone have a Cr10 series printer with a flat headbed?

I thought i had a really warped bed initially when i got my CR-10s and went thru the same thing with ikea-mirrors etc...... Your description at least sound like my initial experience..

The actual cause of why it was warped was not a bad bed but that i had applied too much pressure applied on the 4 corners, causing it warp.

One thing i would recommend you to do is unscrew all leveling-screws and then to get a really straight ruler and then put it flat on the bed and shine a light behind the ruler to see if you have a gap anywhere... If you do then you do have a warped bed.. If you don't you might just need to change the way you level it.. You might be able to use parts of my below leveling procedure to force it flat(er)...

What i did to get a my bed flat.

  • When referring to corners below : LB - Left back corner, RB - Right back corner, FL - Front left corner, FR - Front right corner.
  • Leveling the bed with the below procedure should be done without any glass or mirrors on the bed. I used a small, flat, piece of metal that was about the same height as my glass-sheet to measure the distance between the aluminum plate and nozzle.
  • This full procedure should not be needed every time. Between prints or for small adjustments just jump to step 6.
  • You may need to print out one of the adjustable z-endstop before you start with this to prevent your nozzle running into the aluminum plate during this procedure.
  • Use some kind of markers to keep track of how much you have adjusted the bed-leveling screws.
  • REQUIREMENT: Do not turn off your printer, or disable the steppers, during leveling since that may cause the Z axis to drop down!
  • REQUIREMENT: Make sure your Y-carriage is stable! Loads of CR-10/10s printers gets shipped with the wheels quite loose! When you press down on the black plate it should be the plate that flexes and not the wheels!
  • REQUIREMENT: Make sure your X-axis is level before you start! ( useful thing : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2443037 )
  • YMMW - This is what worked for me.... Think it thru before starting.. Use gloves if working with a heated bed.. You have both electricity and heat in that bed!
  1. Screw in/out all bed-leveling screws just to the extent where the springs are just starting to compress. (half a turn after after the spring touches the bed)
  2. In cw/ccw for all 4 corners turn each knob one full turn to tighten it.
  3. Check for flatness of the bed. Go to step 2 as long as the bed is fully flat.
  4. Turn back all bed-leveling screws equally until your bed is flat again. (step 1+2 in reverse, but less than a full turn on each go)
    At this point you know the lowest point you can go for maximum stability without it warping the bed.
  5. Start a corner-leveling of the printer and check all corners before doing any adjustments.
  6. For adjustments at this point it may be a bit tricky.. To start with only adjust the lowest corner and only release pressure.
    If your FL corner is the lowest corner unscrew it up to half a turn and unscrew the two other corners next to it half of the amount. For 0.5 turns on FL that would be 0.25 turn on FR and LB.
    Repeat this until all corners are within 1mm of each other and recheck for flatness between each adjustment. (or until you get a feel for it)
    This should now result in you having a base-leveling.
  7. Recheck the bed for flatness from corner to corner. If you can see light under the ruler when it goes from FL to RB then tighten FL and RB equally OR loosen RB and FR.
  8. Now do your actual accurate leveling of each corner without having to worry too much about it getting warped for the <1mm adjustments you need per corner.
  9. Warm up the bed to 50 degrees and re-check for flatness... If warped after heating you still have too much pressure.. Unscrew all corners equally until flat-ish and go back to step 6.

This allowed me to get a flat bed without any warping, but it was not as stable as i wanted it to be and that required me to print at lower speeds.

Since then i have swapped out the bed-springs for silicon standoffs that do not require as much pressure for getting a stable bed. If you are looking for some go for stiff ones with as large diameter as possible, while keeping clear of the insulation, and don't worry too much about the height since you can always add some washers.
I have also redone the cable-guide for the hotbed so it's completely disconnected from the bed-leveling screws since it caused higher tension on that corner. (drilled a separate hole to attach it to in the carriage.)

This was my story with what i thought was a warped bed... Maybe you have the same issue as i had and this helps, and if not it might help someone else.

** Tried to keep things as simple and as descriptive as possible for other people that may be new into 3d-printing out there...

CR-10 X-Axis Level Helpers/Towers

My guess is if you had too much pressure on the corners, you would get a bed that bulges up in the middle not down. Especially if you hit those pegs sticking up from the carriage underneath the heatbed.

I have had both my heatbeds completely off the printer to check them with a metal ruler and they were both lower in the middle than in the corners. Creality makes great printers but I guess their heatbeds are their weakness.

But its a good point you make about too much tightening of the levelling screws, someone else may have that exact problem.

I'd say that correcting the warp with masking tape is a need steep, is one time step only, however.
or other videos with the same approach.

I installed a BL-Touch and it made my life a lot better! I tried a knock-off first (Triangle Labs 3DTouch), but it was not consistent. I finally gave up on it and paid for an original BL-Touch. The BL-Touch works like a charm!

Even with a BL-Touch, you still want your bed to be as flat as possible so the bottom of your models are straight.

This video shows you how to use a metal ruler and a light to test for flatness. In the low spots, you need to use shims or simply use blue masking tape. Watch this video at time stamp 2:10: https://youtu.be/ZLxP0Wo2044?t=131

Just curious, if you print a cube on warped bed using BL-Touch,
is the top of cube warped as well or only the bottom is warped?


Only the bottom of the cube comes out warped. You will add this code to your printer's start-up code:

 M420 Z1      ; fade ABL off after 1mm

This code tells Marlin to compensate for the ABL (auto bed leveling) after 1mm.


Good to know that is the M420 designed for that.

If it is that bad try to flatten it some by hand... I had to put tape in spots between the bed and the mirror.
Also, I use mesh leveling which combined with the tap made it really good.

Mesh levelling? I thought you needed the BL-Touch thingy for that but it seems you can do it manually. Good to know.

Since I have two heatbeds now, I thought I might as well try with some brute force. So I have been bending it by hand over my thigh, constantly checking it with my metal ruler to see how much light would shine underneath and it seems I have succeeded in bending it enough the other way to make it almost flat. Or flat enough not to have that hollow in the middle. I just printed the first test pattern that shows it no longer dips down in the middle when the corners are level.

Yay! A level heatbed finally, thanks for the tips :)

It seems that sometimes violence is the best solution. Now I'm just hoping it wont return to its original shape after some time...

If it does you could always go for one of those flexible, removable print beds.

Yeah, I would like to have one of those but mostly I just want my print surface to be flat. Glass and gluestick is working well for me. 3M blue painters tape is surprisingly hard to come by.

Glad it worked out for you