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CR10 S4 Bed Temp

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Ok I have read that there is an issue with getting the bed hot enough fast... but I have another issue...
I can get the bed to 65 with no problem but if I try to go above 65 it faults out.
I have upgraded the firmware to TH3d ...
I would like to print abs on this printer.... but not sure that at 65 its warm enough ....
so any idea why it faults?

I swapped my S4 power supply for a more reliable one (Mean Well) that that issue went away for me. All of my grounding issues also went away. The power supply from Creality is crap!

Do you have a link ???? And how well does it heat the bed any faster / higher etc?

Sorry... Haven't been in the groups for a while. Here is the link to the one I swapped out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K2H0GI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, it does heat the bed a little faster. Not dramatically faster though. I'm also able to get higher temps without it faulting.
I would also suggest grounding your controller to your printer frame. A little extra safety is a good thing.

Hope this helps!

Have you check your wire plugins? Sounds like you might be getting a lot of Resistance somewhere.

Not sure really where to check to be honest.... it will like I said not get any hotter than 65'c

If you haven't already, get some non-flammable insulation and put on the bottom of the heated bed. Stock about half of the heat radiates into the air below the heater then rises by spilling out from the sides. Soon as you put an insulator there to stop that half from convecting away and being wasted, you basically double the heat going into heating the bed. Similarly you can also make a top cover, and put it on while the bed is initially heating and it will get to initial temperature even faster. Then you just need some G code to make everthing pause so you can remove the temporary top insulation once it's to temp.
On Amazon just put in 1/2 inch ceramic insulation and you'll find plenty of listings. Not the cheapest stuff but it's very effective. Cheaper items like cork work for insulating, but you run a higher risk of fire if something in the bed ever shorts out.

ok will take a look on Amazon thanks... also whats the G-code?

I'm assuming by fault you mean you get a heating error from the firmware (i.e. a "Heating Failed" error? There are settings in the firmware that will error out if the temperature isn't changing enough within a given timeframe. In stock Marlin you'll find those under thermal settings in configuration.h (http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#safety) and configuration_adv.h (http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#thermal-protection-settings). I believe the setting you need to increase is the WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD and/or decrease WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD.

You don't actually need a very hot bed for ABS (I use 70 degrees), ambient temperature is much more important. It is cooling down to fast that causes warping and delamination. For small parts this is not really a big problem, but for anything big you need an enclosure (unless your room is very hot).

Finally; a bigger Mosfet won't do any good - its the PSU thats the limitation on how much current you provide. If you want better heating you need to get one of those AC beds or convert to a 24v system.

I'm not sure where to find that in the TH3D version of Marlin though, since they have moved the settings around.

Well I will try with the bed only 70 and see what happens... the ambient is pretty warm where it is... in my shop... I use another one of my other printers for smaller stuff... this one is mainly for cosplay armor etc...
Will try looking at the two files... yeah this has been flashed with the Marlin variant that is out there... not the stock firmware

Also I imagine that the fault is probably due to the printer trying to increase the temp but it's stalling out due to the tiny/weak heater. Does it say anything on the screen? Maybe monitor the console and see if the output provides more information.

yeah it is stalling out ..... =)

I can't remember if there is a setting in the firmware for max temp but that's one possibility to check. That said, on my S5, the heater was too small and the bed too big to be able to get the temp much past 60. Upgrading to the Keenovo bed was probably one of my best upgrades and I can go from room temp to 120 in about 4 minutes. Can hit 65 for PLA printing in just over a minute. It's possible to print ABS at lower bed temps or even without a bed heater but you will likely have all sorts of challenges and your print quality will suffer. I can't imagine hitting anything above 70 on the stock bed heater and you won't see the recommended bed temp of 110 for ABS unless it's on fire.

so do you need a full size keenovo or could I get by with the 300x300 size or do I need the full bed size?

yeah its timing out I think... but I was also wondering if this would help High Amp 12V/24V MOSFET V2 – Heated Bed or Hotend

' if this would help High Amp 12V/24V MOSFET V2' as phiednate said the mosfet won't really do anything extra for you by itself. A high power mosfet is only capable of controlling higher power, you still need a higher power bed and/or higher power heater for there to actually be higher power.

Think of it as a higher power light switch. If you change just the switch, that's great, but if you use the same low power light connected to the switch that low power light is going to draw the same power it did before. The only difference is you can get a higher power light and hook it up to the switch. Or think of a valve in a water system. If you have 3/4" pipe of water coming in, hooking a 6" valve on it isn't going to suddenly make a 6" stream amount of water come out of the 3/4" pipe. It is only a high capacity switch so it can handle that amount, but everything else has to be upgraded to that 6" high capacity for there to actually be high capacity flow coming through it.

I don't know much about mosfet but I believe they are just a type of electronic switch. I could be wrong but I don't see how it would help you to increase your bed temp. Your still working with the same bed heater and power load.