Hello, just curious if anyone has any tips to look for to repair my box for my CR-10S. I was replacing the nozzle and there is a chance maybe there was a short, not sure, but the box will not boot up anymore. It is non responsive and I am not sure what to do or what to look for. I did pull the fuse but there was no issue with it. It was purchased from Mechestore so I am looking into that route. Anyone have any tips to what to look for? I appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
This is just a quick venting of the issues I have had with my CR-10, so here it goes.
Starting off I run an Anet A8 and a CR10 in a printing cabinet which for the first month or so worked wonders, I could do two prints at once and had no issues whatsoever. I fully expected the CR10 to be my reliable printer and the Anet to be the testing printer that I would have to fix and tune a lot but that hasn't been the case at all.
My first issue was around the 10-20th layer the print would start shifting and under extruding horribly and made it impossible to make anything other than a basic cube, so I started at the spool to see if there was too much/too little tension in the line or if the feeder wasn't tensioned properly. So as a fix I used a 3d printed adjustable tensioner, no luck.
I moved up the line to the extruder and just decided to replace it, still no luck so I replaced the fan with a Noctua fan and my dumbass shorted the fan wires and fried the board.
At this point I was regretting my purchase and debating selling it broken, but where is the fun in that?! I swallowed my pride and just replaced the board, except I found tons of mixing documentation with some saying it was 12v and some saying 24v. Which I tried to sift through but to no avail. Putting everything on the line I ordered a replacement board and a installed it. And HURRAY IT PRINTS... well sorta.
Now I was having issues with the bed "Skipping" and causing a different type of shifting now. UGGGG.
This one turned out to be an easy fix, turns out the vibrations of the printer on the cupboard was causing some issues so just putting foam under the printer solved the issue.
NOW the only thing left to do (Knock on wood) is to somehow mount the control box to the cupboard as the wires are way too short currently, in the attached picture it's in the bottom left if anyone has ideas on how to do it, and maybe get some self-leveling.
Now I am super happy with my CR-10 and have a 90hr print running as of writing this and its whisper quiet and very detailed!!
This isn't to say the CR-10 is bad or you shouldn't get it, but these are just my personal experiences with it.
TLDR: CR-10 had a ton of issues some caused by me, some not. And my Anet-A8 had 0! But eventually fixed everything and was happy!
hi, this is laurent from belgium, sorry for my englich is no good lol
ok, i am search systeme simple for stop my print with because my fil pla is finish,
please hep mee,
After having searched this forum especially, aswell as Google and other more direct or indirect sources to find info on the pinouts (especially the pinout from control box diagram) , i am still left with contradicting info so im thinking...."what the hell, ill try". I have most of the wires written up on a diagram but i am getting different pinouts or colour identification when it comes to the CR-10. I will update this post with the confirmed diagrams and pinouts and wiring for anyone that wants to get this info at a later point (I will edit the OP with a list, im writing the list continously) For my own concern im mostly looking to find info on the pinout/brackets etc that connect or are welded into the control box, AND the 2xRed - 2xWhite wires going from the heatblock and extruder nozzle and to the control box. Does it matter how i pair these or can i just connect those willynilly as in it doesnt matter which red goes to the other? My printer "version is the Cr-10 300 i think. The ULTIMATE thing would be someone providing some credible links, diagrams or schemes i can read. Surely this has been asked many many times before but yet again i find myself having to "double check" the info i get elsewhere :\ Thanks everyone and sorry to bother you :)
I need to print about a dozen of this part. As you will see in the photo, it's about 15.9" across the corners and 5" tall.
I just purchased my CR-10 S5 and i'm running Cura 4.1 w/ the Creawesome mod.
I'm using PLA from Coex and 1.0mm tip to hopefully print this part as quickly as possible.
I did a 0% infill and made the first 15 or so layers solid so that it was strong where the screws are for mounting to the wall.
After about 5-6 layers, pretty much all the corners lifted on the build. I had the tip temp at 225 and the bed at 60.
What can i do to get this to stick better?
I was printing on bare glass that was cleaned with alcohol...do i need to use something else?
The wires and the material feed tube going to my extruder on my new CR10 S5 knocked over my large print last night about a 1/4 of the way into it, leaving me with a spool of material on the bed. :(
These cables hang down about 2" below (see attached photo) and i was doing a spiralize mode part so the cables were drooping inside the part therefor knocking it off.
What's the best way to get these cables up above the plane of the gantry but not limiting it's travel?
I just ordered this upgraded 2.2 mainboard.
Anyone know if TL-Smoothers would be helpful or does the new board and chipset pretty much duplicate this functionality?