Ok so first of all i want to clarify if i am in the correct group asking this or if i should direct elsewhere. Im asking here because i own a Cr-10 300 and will be printing with that. I drew a concept car bacxk in the days when i was 16-17..and i just recovered this model. I would LOVE to ttry and print a scaled model of this as the option of realizing dreams became ALOT more available with the 3Dprinters. Would it be enough if i simply welded the shape together at the surface....then choose all supporting devices that are needed...and try a print? I`ve only tried printing pretty basic shapes and geometry so far. :s Im trying to "simplify it in accordance of topology so far.
Hellos wonderful people, I have a problem with my cr-10. As described in the title I have an issue where there are blobs that stick out at the exact same spot. These blobs seem to be right where the infill lines meet the shell and the outside of the print. Gratefull for any help.
Hellos wonderful people, I have a problem with my cr-10. As described in the title I have an issue where there are blobs that stick out at the exact same spots. These blobs seem to be right where the infill lines meet the shell and the outside of the print. Gratefull for any help.
I've been spoiled using REAL filament, it prints well for me using Cura's Draft PLA defaults. Lately I got some Geeetech (red and black PLA) and it's not printing nice at all. I'm using the same gcode files as I did for the REAL. I've attached pictures but I don't think it shows how bad the actual print is. It feels like it's spongy. It's all lines, is brittle and breaks/cracks along the lines with just a teensy bit of finger pressure.
I'm waiting for the printer to finish a print before I attempt to get this Geeetech printing nice. I'm not really sure where to start, it's so long since I played with settings... Any suggestions for Cura setting are welcome.
I changed my board to a SKR V1.3 Marlin 2.0 bugfix.
Everything works fine, including TFT35, SD card ...
But if I heat up the hotend, it will exceed 5 to 10 degrees and the temperature will fluctuate.
The heatbed temp works well.
I used the stock PID values from the example config and also run a PID Autotune.
The Autotune gets me values far from the original ones.
Also with the new values stored it overshoots and does not hold the temperature.
Hello, just curious if anyone has any tips to look for to repair my box for my CR-10S. I was replacing the nozzle and there is a chance maybe there was a short, not sure, but the box will not boot up anymore. It is non responsive and I am not sure what to do or what to look for. I did pull the fuse but there was no issue with it. It was purchased from Mechestore so I am looking into that route. Anyone have any tips to what to look for? I appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
hi, this is laurent from belgium, sorry for my englich is no good lol
ok, i am search systeme simple for stop my print with because my fil pla is finish,
please hep mee,