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Marlin 2.0.9.2

by rq3

I was hoping that Marlin would leap to 2.1, but no. Anyway, the latest full release works well on the stock Predator, and you can even use the MarlinUI, rather than the ClassicUI. MarlinUI is a full color touch screen interface. Temperature control seems more stable, as it should, since they finally realized that the Trigorilla Pro uses 12 bit, rather than 10 bit ADC's (thanks to me). In my opinion, it's still not good enough for platinum RTD sensors, but I'm working on that.

Motion control (steppers) seems to have been tightened up a bit, although I have no proof of that, other than M48 reports more realistic and repeatably believable values.

If you do use MarlinUI in configuration.h, you will have to "de-comment" Mesh_Edit_GFX_Overlay in configuration.h to get it to compile. Under ClassicUI, it compiles fine, and seems to work well. Bug report submitted.

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Marlin 2.0.7 for the Anycubic Predator

by rq3

Attached is a zip file which will unzip into Marlin 2.0.7 modified for the stock AnyCubic delta Predator using the Chitu Trigorilla Pro 32 bit board and 3.5 inch touch screen. The firmware.bin file in the pio\build\trigorilla_pro folder should directly load onto the board, using a USB cable and the STMicro Demonstrator, if the board jumpers are correctly configured.

Alternatively, you can modify any files you need to, recompile under PlatformIO, and download your new firmware.bin file.

There is no need to physically rotate the display, and the only issue that I am seeing is that perhaps the filament detection logic is reversed. I am looking into that, but you can turn OFF filament detection from the touchscreen, and store that change, as a workaround.

The "Enter" and "Cancel" touch button positions will be swapped left to right, and the previously dark blue enter button will be an easier to see blue, but otherwise the functions are all "normal Marlin".

After updating your Predator to Marlin, you must run a delta calibration and save the changes from the touch screen.

The Marlin GitHub releases change too fast, and too far, especially in the realm of the user interface, for me to keep up with, so this will likely be my last post on this topic for quite a while. If I discover an improvement I'll post, otherwise I'm done for now.

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Changing E-Steps on Chitu

by Javimoper

Hi, im running the stock board right now and ive upgraded to a BMG clone, ive been loking around on how i can change de E-steps.
So through cura i send the comands.
-1rst thing ive done is send G1 E100 F100 so it extrudes 100mm
-Im getting a value of 93mm
I dont think the comand values i send in are working correctly because ive changed this value several times (M8011 S) and saving with M8500 and the measurement on extrusion is the same.
Did manage to change the extruding direction.
Any help? is there anything im not doing?

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Removing the paint from the painted Delta rails

by ZomboWTF

Hi, i decided to go the extra mile of Skellatores guide
and i now am trying to remove all the paint
from the Anycubic Predators Rails (only where the V Slot wheels roll)

Does anyone have an idea what the best way to do that is?
I started rubbing the Rails with acetone, but that will take pretty long.
Maybe another solvent would give me better results?
or something which i can remove the paint with but not scratch the metal underneath?

Help is greatly appreciated.

BTW i know about linear rails, but i dont like the idea of the linear rails being modded, i am afraid that it would introduce even more precision loss.

Update:

the difference between the rails being painted and the V-slots being bare aluminum are incredible, they feel a hundred times smoother when driving the carriage across it by hand, i still have to change the belts and make test prints, but i'm very optimistic

the best way to remove the paint from the v-slots is just using acetone (be sure to use correct breathing and skin protection)
using acetone takes somes time, but you just need to strip the v-slot of paint, nothing else, and using paint stripper i stead makes the paint bubble up, ending up in you still needing something to scrape it off, which may scratch the V-Slots

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Marlin 2.0.9.2 Advanced uses

by ChuckAndy

Right now the bed leveling does not seem to be an issue for me, tho it is not working correctly as the number of spots it will probe is the 4 center points.

The homing and parking for filament change feature is broken/breaking other parts.

trigorilla_pro_maple seems to compile the best for me,

Use winmerge, compare and edit files. Do not want to hear about anyone having special files that magically break machines.

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A Different Piezo Probe

by rq3

Attached is a description of a very different approach to piezo probing. I have a prototype on my Predator, and it works....frighteningly well.
Just throwing it out there. I don't make them, sell them, or have parts for them. The basic idea is the take away.

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Very Easy, Very Cheap Predator Accuracy Upgrade

by rq3

The Predator bed is supported by 6 blue anodized aluminum washers. From the factory, those washers were badly finished, and had rough edges that tended to catch and release the bed as it heated and cooled. This caused the bed to flex and warp, leading to bowing and dishing. Not good.

Long ago I removed the washers, cleaned up all of their rough edges, and re-installed them with a coating of silicone grease. This helped tremendously.

Today, in a "what if" moment, I again removed the washers and replaced them with standard "O" rings from the hardware store (1/8" thick, 1/4" ID, 1/2" OD). The dimensions aren't critical. I greased them up with silicone grease, and made sure the mounting screws went through their centers. I left the 6 screws VERY loose, so that I could move the bed back and forth by hand. Viton "O" rings are the best (pale blue color), but more expensive and may be harder to find, but they will last forever. Any will work, but standard neoprene or buna-n will harden with age.

Unified Bed Leveling in Marlin is now within 2 microns across the bed. Probing is much more repeatable, and I even think I see an improvement in print surface finish with the bed de-coupled from the microscopic printer frame vibration.

Not bad for 30 minutes and $2 in parts! And its really easy to go back if you don't like the results.

EDIT: And adding 005 "O" rings to the bed screws will isolate them from the bed. You'll have to drill out the bed screw holes so that the 005 "O" rings are a slightly snug fit, place washers under the screw heads, lubricate everything with a light film of silicone grease, and make sure the screws are NOT tight. The bed should "float" under hand pressure about 1mm side to side. Cycle the bed temp from room to 100C several times to let everything "settle in", calibrate, level, and print. Save your settings (M500).

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The Very Different Extruder (VDE-100)

by rq3

Quite some time ago I went to direct drive on my Predator, and recently got to thinking about the weight of extruders, and whether there might be a better, or at least different, way to push on a rope (extrude plastic).

The results are here, installed in a messy fashion on my Predator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfEMiO1hLbs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aG0J3YIvRz0

The whole thing weighs 120 grams.

I don't sell it or make parts, but it does work, and the files and discussion are on the RepRap forum in the "tech" section.
https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?424

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Recalibrating after upgrading to MagBall arms

by 3D_Piper

I upgraded my Predator to magball arms and now the prints are too big.
What should be 35mm is 36.5mm.
How do I re-calibrate so the prints are the exact size they should be?
Edit:
I saw the other thread on this topic here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/thingiverse/forums/general/topic:53009
I have also update the configuration with M8083 and M8084 and saved it with M8500.
When I backed up that file and opened it in notepad, I noticed there are multiple M8083 and M8084 entries..
Is that normal?

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