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New Anycubic Kossel Firmware

by pache11

Has anyone loaded the new beta firmware for their kossel? For the linear plus it is:
ANYCUBIC_Kossel_Plus_Beta2_0312.hex

It looks like it was released this year.

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TMC2100 Stepper drivers with anycubic kossel

by ricki_s

Hi, has anyone tried the kossel with this driver? Is it possible? I'm looking to upgrade to them as the reviews say they're quiter bit was looking for any experience with them before I go forward. There's a seller on aliexpress that is selling these. Apologies if this has been asked before b

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Multiple Issues (measurements, preset temps, behaviour)

by dhamokk

Ok, so I got myself a Kossel (edit\ Linear + //edit)last years christmas and it prints pretty nice, some ghosting behind corners yes, but prints are pretty clean, I've seen way worse prints by other printers. Printed Benchys and 2x2x2 cubes and it was fine... as long as you don't need made to measurement parts.

A colleague asked me to print a part for a prop (he's a Star Wars fan, thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3004404 ) which was too big for his printer. It looked well after printing over night, I gave it to him at work and a couple of days later he claimed, it wouldn't fit, no details. I didn't pay much attention to that, continued printing other stuff for myself, upgrades for my printer like hardened corners, parts for an encasement, etc, all was fitting more or less OK, some rasping here, some squeezing there, but not too much to think there could be a general problem.

Lastly I printed a case for a scalpel, with place for replacement blades and two handles and it came out too small: It should have 200mm in length, but it only had 197mm!

I thought the most logic would be, that the diagonal rods are shorter than specified in firmware, that's why the printers calculations on where the nozzle actually is, is wrong, increasing with the size of the object -> the further away from the center, the more inaccurate the position. So I did the following: I measured the diagonal rods and they are indeed shorter (267mm) as the value stored in the firmware (271.5), so I changed the value to the new ones, flashed, leveled the printer and printed a selfmade test, 140x90mm. The height of the print is the same over every spot of the print so the leveling worked just as it should. But in length it only was 138.2 and 89mm in width.

And here my knowledge ends, what else could be wrong? Steps per mm?

Maybe good to know: I changed the stepper drivers to TMC2208 (in firmware as standalone), reference voltage 0.9V so I don't think I lose steps here, the belts are not worn out and tightened with the original spring tightener. I also lube the smooth rod and moving parts with oil every now and then. Marlin version 1.1.9
I didn't touch the other delta values.

That was the main issue I got with this printer, now to the minor ones:

Another problem is the behaviour of the printer, if (and only then!) I change values like temperature or speed midprinting. The changes I make are working, that's not the matter (e.g. setting a higher temperature or speed resulting in a higher temperature and different speed) BUT: At the end of the print, the printer seems to have forgotten that he's a delta printer and tries to home Y first instead of rising all axis simultaneous, resulting in crashing the hotend into the belt! If I don't touch anything, it does as it should. How do I solve this?

And the third one: I've already found the entry in the language file and changed the text from ABS to PETG, because I won't ever print ABS, but most times PETG and sometimes PLA. I also changed the PREHEAT_2_TEMP_xxx in configuration.h to PETG suitable values, but when I choose preheat PETG in the printer menu, it uses the old ABS values (240°C Hotend and 100°C bed) instead of my setting (220°C and 65°C). Why is that?

Lando Calrissian's Custom SE-14 Blaster (from Solo: A Star Wars Movie).
by mrfochs
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Anycubic Plus (probably Pulley too) stock hotend fix

by DukeLander

Ok, I will try to explain with my perfect english... and if you do it, so do it at your own risk.

Like most of Anycubic owners, I had problems with extrusion and print quality which has getting worst with time, ending with extruder jumps,hotend leakings, oozing etc...
Problem with hotend is there are more than one problem. It is nozzle, PTFE tube, nozzle-heatbrake-PTFE connection, heatbrake poor design, thermistor and heater poor connection with heatblock and thermistor poor quality.

Solution is very simple, you only need some skills with tools and some CPU thermal paste and time. You can use thermal glue but if you need to disassemble again in future, you will have a problem. Thermal paste is cheap, stable and easy to remove if you need it with polyalcohol and similar...
I have used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut while it is certified to +350°C, works great.

First of all, you need new good quality PTFE tube, price is ~5e for good quality tube on Amazon in EU. Stock tube is catastrophe...
Same with nozzle, buy new ones, it is cheap, stock is very, very low quality. My nozzle was "dead" after one week.

When you get new parts, you need to completely disassemble hotend from effector, (fan's, housing, everything) take down stock PTFE tube (from hotend and extruder) and trow away (before that take lenght measure for new one) only PTFE tube, you will need coupling with new PTFE.
Prepare new PTFE, you have to almost perfectly to cut 90° on one end of PTFE (that goes in hotend-you can print PTFE cutter or so before this action, in emergency you can use coupler as cutting guide) mount it on extruder and just prepare it for hotend,leave hotend coupler aside.

You have to disassemble the hotend. Take nozzle down (pliars and wrench) and heatbrake from heatblock (heatbrake stays together with heatsink), on heatblock you will find 2 small holes where are inbus/allen screws for heater and thermistor and you have to unscrew them, take thermistor and heater out.
On heatsink you will find 2 small holes where are 2 inbus/allen screws, unscrew and heatbrake is free from heatsink, like on Pic 2.
And there you will see design problem with heatbrake. There is no threads on heatbrake on heatsink side,it is simple cylinder and tolerance is too big so heat dispersion is very poor.

Now take new nozzle and heatbrake and put it together on heatblock. I recommend to watch some yt videos how to do it, it is a very important step, i.e. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNXYL-3UdOA
Put thin layer thermal paste on cylinder and inside walls on heatsink (I mean very thin layer), put it together and tighten the screws on heatsink.

At this point, half job is done.

Now take thermistor and you will see very small cylinder with wires in it at end. 99,9% cylinder is not fixed on wires and that is big problem, because you are getting wrong temperature readings because thermal "connection" is very poor, while efector is moving due printing, thermistor wires are moving inside heatblock. That is one of reasons why your hotend temperature readings are jumping 10°C up and down and you see temperature change traces on your prints.
Take small pliers and try very gently to press cylinder until it is fixed on wires.
Be aware, if you press too hard, you can permanently damage your thermistor. When it is done,put some thermal paste in thermistor hole on heatblock and thin layer on thermistor end, put it back in heatblock and tighten the screw.
Be aware, tightening screw has to press cylinder in hole (that is cylinder function). If you miss cylinder, you can permanently damage thermistror wires...again...
Now take heater, put thin thermal paste on heater and in heater walls inside heatblock,put it together and tighten it with screw.

At this point, your heatend is finished and you can assemble the hotend on effector.
When you are finished with mounting, last but not least important step is PTFE tube "housing" inside hotend.
And here is why is so important to cut the end of PTFE to 90°, because PTFE tube goes all the way down trough heatsink and heatbrake to the nozzle. If you have some bigger tolerance beetween them, you risk blob of death and similar problems.

Now comes tricky part, do it carefully, if you dont want something like on my stock PTFE, big mistake from Anycubic aka improper handling on Pic 3

Put PTFE coupler on heatsink and screw it gently till you can with your fingers, without tools,dont force to maximum tightening with fingers, you need some tolerance for later. Push PTFE tube trought coupler till end, you can use a little more force for that, just to be sure. You will notice PTFE tube goes only in one way, in nozzle direction, secure ring does not allow moving in opposite direction, it suppose to work so if everything is ok.
Now take wrench and tighten coupler with normal tightening force. Secure ring will catch PTFE tube and push it to nozzle while you tightenint the coupler with wrench.

And if everything is ok, you will get extra stable temperatures, no more oozing and realy good prints. Since I did this, I have no issues with my prints.

Pics 4,5,6,7,8 are some examples of printing, I print everything in 0,2mm.

Thats it folks :-)

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Resume after power fail

by Gegsite

Is there a way to make the first Kossel (linear plus) firmware to be able to resume printing after power loss? Today's anycubic products can do that.

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Drv8825 stepper drivers on Marlin 1.1.9

by MrMilan

Hi all, I'm replacing my A4498s with DRV8825s, and I know you have to double the steps. I'm not used to Delta configured firmware, so what is the correct parameter to get them working? TIA

drv8825 marlin_firmware
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Kossel manual leveling

by VMtechofficial

Hi, does anyone know if there is a firmware with the MANUAL leveling of the printing bed for the kossel linear plus?

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Printing procedure

by jdplus3

I have several cartesian printers but this is my first Kossel. I am printing with great quality already (day #1!) but I have questions.
(I am using the current firmware as shipped)
—when I update the z-pos setting, and SAVE, it often reverts to a previous value.
—To start printing I run a Z-positioning, and then print my file. If I stop the print, sometimes it retains the correct bed surface reference, other times it will not and will start a new print about an inch in the air. So, am I supposed to run a z-pos calibration every time before I start a print? That is, is it necessary for the machine to define bed-level for each print?

Sorry if this is already addressed- there isnt a good index to the threads that I can find. thanks! Jim

auto_bed_leveling
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Help woth prtiner issue E1 Heating Failed printer halted.

by cerealklr02

Hey everyone,

I keep getting the E1 Heating Failed Printer Halted Please Reset error notification. I have changed out the Thermistor twice and it will do one short print (17 minute print) perfectly fine and then after that I get the error screen again. Then when I turn it off and back on and try to home the extruder I get the homing failed error. What do I need to do to fix this issue? Thanks for any help you all can give me.

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