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Anycbic Kossel Linear Plus and Marlin 2.0.0 problem

by OilBrush

Hey guys and gals. I upgraded my FW to Marlin 2.0.0 (https://www.lpomykal.cz/kossel-marlin-firmware/), but there is a small problem. When I abort the print from Cura the printer starts homing the rod pairs individually and not at the same time. If I wouldn't shut down the printer the rod pair or the carrier would crash to one of the aluminium extrusions. Any idea why this is happening? Also, I downloaded the original FW, but adjusting the Z offset doesn't change anything, so I'm kind of stuck. And grumpy.

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Cura 4.6 retracting all of my filament after every print

by Clonedone

My kossel has been working fine until I upgraded my computer and installed cura 4.6 (previously I was on 4.4). I wasn't able to add the same profile I had from 4.4 to 4.6.

Now the printer will finish a print successfully, but then instead of returning to home, it will retract over 400mm of filament and then eventually return home and turn off the heaters.

Here is my end code in cura if anyone can help me take a look at it:
M400 ;Free buffer
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 F{speed_travel} Z+1 E-1 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G90 ;absolute positioning
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off
M107 ;fan off
M84 ;steppers off
G28 ;move to endstop
M84 ;steppers off

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FIXED Nozzle Temperature dropping and fluctuating rapidly

by Joanna1234

Just recently, my nozzle temps have been extremely unstable. Whenever I start a print, the recently stable 200 degrees Celsius drops drastically - by around 15 degrees. This almost always triggers thermal runaway. However, if it doesn't, the temperature fluctuates rapidly by around 7 degrees during the print.

I've already calibrated the PID, and even tried to use auto temp.

Could anyone help fix this? Thanks in advance.


I replaced the heater cartridge and now the temperatures are stable. Thank you all for replying!

Anycubic_Kossel_Plus Failed_Print temperature thermal_runaway
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Anycubic Linear Plus + SKR 1.3 - the best and cheapest upgrade

by DukeLander

I have tried several boards but this one is ultimate winner.
I saw it first time on Chris Basement video in combination with Prusa Mk3 and it is supported by Marlin 2.0.
I found BigTreeTech SKR 1.3 for 17 (seventheen) euros on AliExpress, waited for 2 weeks for delivery, previously I had LV8729 (128 step) and DRV8825 (32 step) drivers.
I have combined 8729 for XYZ and 8825 for extruder (First I have tried with A4988 on extruder but it was too loud).
Of course, it is fully compatible with A4988 drivers.

Marlin 2.0 is still in alpha stage but it does hell of a job.
BigTree has Marlin 2.0 firmware version on GitHub, but it is outdated in terms it is not compatible with latest Marlin 2.0 and there is no support for deltas - delta section is completely removed from BigTree config files.
Result was writing from scratch configuration files in latest Marlin 2.0, where Marlin team did great job with example config files for Anycubic kossel, it is a really new dimension in correlated functions and parameters in new config files + PlatformIO IDE is much better than Arduino IDE for work.

Summa summarum:

-100% compatible board with stock parts on AC Linear Plus
-Very fast and precise printing with Arc,Bezier curves and Linear Advance function on
-If you use 32+ steps drivers, you can hear only fans, finally you can print and sleep in same room
-Wide options in menu on M 2.0, you can literally do anything through menu options, i.e. pause, filament change etc works flawlessly
-Price: 17 € board... no comment...

There is only one downside on this board: hotend fan - it is always on when you turn your printer on because there is only one fan output on board and it is used for part cooling.
There is possible workaround to make some outputs on board to be configurable fan output, but I did not care about that.

Here are some results:

0,2mm print:


Video about silent run:

In next days I will upload config files and manual how to do it, till then, make some comments :-)

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Rod replacements?

by sharky25k


I got an anycubic Kossel Linear Plus last year and no matter how much I tried I never managed to level it correctly and be level on the entire surface of the bed.

Currently I have the printer on an SKR 1.4 turbo board with TMC2209 and it kinda works OK, but I have some issue, that the size of the prints are a little bit off in the left side (they seem slightly smaller not too much but maybe 0.5 mm). I noticed that the effector carriage is moving a little bit so I would like to change the rods for the printer. Unfortunately I don't find any good genuine source for the rods, and I am also not really savy to make them by myself. I saw some designs for magnetic rods here on thingiverse, but the issue is that I don't have another printer to print the components, and I don't want to use this printer as it seems that it has some dimension issues. And for this parts the sizes are critical...

I would think to order something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808866275.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.12746007adzYyS&algo_pvid=4ae758db-57cc-438a-aae4-5696fcbe0ed5&algo_expid=4ae758db-57cc-438a-aae4-5696fcbe0ed5-3&btsid=0ab6d59515939707120333096e74b9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I am pretty sure that the magnetic carriages will fit my printer, but I don't know if the effector module would do the trick... Mainly because I don't see how you would put on that the fan for part cooling. As well as the rods are 300 mm.

Does anybody know a place from where you can get some rods the size of this printer? Most sales which I see are for 200 250 or 300 mm carbon rods and as far as I know, the rods on the linear plus are 267 mm...

I don't really need magnetic rods, but I want something which will definitely not wiggle.

Any suggestions are very welcome. Also if you would have a list of parts that would be great.

Thank you in advance,

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