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FIXED Nozzle Temperature dropping and fluctuating rapidly

by Joanna1234

Just recently, my nozzle temps have been extremely unstable. Whenever I start a print, the recently stable 200 degrees Celsius drops drastically - by around 15 degrees. This almost always triggers thermal runaway. However, if it doesn't, the temperature fluctuates rapidly by around 7 degrees during the print.

I've already calibrated the PID, and even tried to use auto temp.

Could anyone help fix this? Thanks in advance.

Edit:

I replaced the heater cartridge and now the temperatures are stable. Thank you all for replying!

Anycubic_Kossel_Plus Failed_Print temperature thermal_runaway
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Anycubic Linear Plus + SKR 1.3 - the best and cheapest upgrade

by DukeLander

I have tried several boards but this one is ultimate winner.
I saw it first time on Chris Basement video in combination with Prusa Mk3 and it is supported by Marlin 2.0.
I found BigTreeTech SKR 1.3 for 17 (seventheen) euros on AliExpress, waited for 2 weeks for delivery, previously I had LV8729 (128 step) and DRV8825 (32 step) drivers.
I have combined 8729 for XYZ and 8825 for extruder (First I have tried with A4988 on extruder but it was too loud).
Of course, it is fully compatible with A4988 drivers.

Marlin 2.0 is still in alpha stage but it does hell of a job.
BigTree has Marlin 2.0 firmware version on GitHub, but it is outdated in terms it is not compatible with latest Marlin 2.0 and there is no support for deltas - delta section is completely removed from BigTree config files.
Result was writing from scratch configuration files in latest Marlin 2.0, where Marlin team did great job with example config files for Anycubic kossel, it is a really new dimension in correlated functions and parameters in new config files + PlatformIO IDE is much better than Arduino IDE for work.

Summa summarum:

-100% compatible board with stock parts on AC Linear Plus
-Very fast and precise printing with Arc,Bezier curves and Linear Advance function on
-If you use 32+ steps drivers, you can hear only fans, finally you can print and sleep in same room
-Wide options in menu on M 2.0, you can literally do anything through menu options, i.e. pause, filament change etc works flawlessly
-Price: 17 € board... no comment...

There is only one downside on this board: hotend fan - it is always on when you turn your printer on because there is only one fan output on board and it is used for part cooling.
There is possible workaround to make some outputs on board to be configurable fan output, but I did not care about that.

Here are some results:

0,2mm print:
https://ibb.co/gtKgp3r
https://ibb.co/7bxS5jf
https://ibb.co/SQr0KZ3
https://ibb.co/sVbQp67
https://ibb.co/PTKP1Ts

0,1mm:
https://ibb.co/GCGrpqC
https://ibb.co/bH9xxNN
https://ibb.co/R0sqXPm

Video about silent run:
https://streamable.com/alunr

In next days I will upload config files and manual how to do it, till then, make some comments :-)

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Rod replacements?

by sharky25k

Hello,

I got an anycubic Kossel Linear Plus last year and no matter how much I tried I never managed to level it correctly and be level on the entire surface of the bed.

Currently I have the printer on an SKR 1.4 turbo board with TMC2209 and it kinda works OK, but I have some issue, that the size of the prints are a little bit off in the left side (they seem slightly smaller not too much but maybe 0.5 mm). I noticed that the effector carriage is moving a little bit so I would like to change the rods for the printer. Unfortunately I don't find any good genuine source for the rods, and I am also not really savy to make them by myself. I saw some designs for magnetic rods here on thingiverse, but the issue is that I don't have another printer to print the components, and I don't want to use this printer as it seems that it has some dimension issues. And for this parts the sizes are critical...

I would think to order something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808866275.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.12746007adzYyS&algo_pvid=4ae758db-57cc-438a-aae4-5696fcbe0ed5&algo_expid=4ae758db-57cc-438a-aae4-5696fcbe0ed5-3&btsid=0ab6d59515939707120333096e74b9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I am pretty sure that the magnetic carriages will fit my printer, but I don't know if the effector module would do the trick... Mainly because I don't see how you would put on that the fan for part cooling. As well as the rods are 300 mm.

Does anybody know a place from where you can get some rods the size of this printer? Most sales which I see are for 200 250 or 300 mm carbon rods and as far as I know, the rods on the linear plus are 267 mm...

I don't really need magnetic rods, but I want something which will definitely not wiggle.

Any suggestions are very welcome. Also if you would have a list of parts that would be great.

Thank you in advance,

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Extruder unfeeding all of the filament mid print.

by ignasp

While printing the print just stops and unfeeds all of the filament, then tries to feed it back in before unpausing. tried reflashing the firmware but that did nothing, don't know if it's a slicer issue or a firmware issue.

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Anycubic I3 Mega DOMED center of the build plate

by CmdrDelmonte

Hi All :-)

I have the I3 Mega with the ultra base.

I can level it all the way around the edges and 4 corners and its spot on
However, the centre is 'High', the filament is just smeared at the middle point, to get around this, for now, I have set the edges to 1.5mm (Using a gauge)
and that puts the centre around 0.5mm and set Simplify 3D to extruded extra filament. It works but it's not right.

I have had the bed apart and checked the guide rods rotate freely in their mounts, At first, they were solid but sorted thats now,

Wondered if anyone has had the same, or even a solution maybe

Thank you :-)

Mark

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