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General information collated into the most often asked questions and answers.
NOT an official Anycubic-operated forum; just customers discussing their machines.

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Print trouble

by Corwynn

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1271858 my hot end keeps running into the arches and breaking them I have re leveled the print bed. I have had no other print issues. Warping?

Three-path Dice Tower V.2
by bainite
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i3 Mega Identification


There are several versions of the machine known as the "Anycubic i3 Mega", this thread will hopefully help you to identify which yours is, and establish the useful nicknames and shorthand for specifying each one, so that others know exactly what we are talking about when we say "my mega".
This is a placeholder.

  • 00 version
    • AFAIK this is what is often referred to as the Anycubic "Omega" i3 (note the 'O') - Current Official product name: "ANYCUBIC Modular i3"
    • Not really a 'Mega'. Not actually referred to by anycubic as 'version 00' (although it seems logical they might). Adding it here because it is the precursor to the 'i3 Mega', and sometimes generates confusion because of it's very similar name, and is also an i3 type.
    • perspex frame
    • Opensource firmware
    • LCD2004 display (iirc)
    • http://www.anycubic3d.com/products/show/1044.html

The following is sourced from Alice Yu on facebook and edited for logic:

  • 01 version
    • Black in appearance
    • Out of production, no longer sold.
    • Have inductive probe leveling-assist device.
    • Driver: A4988
    • Trigorilla (8bit, Mega 2560 chipset)
      Main Control Chip: ATMEGA256016AU
      Input Power: 10V ~ 30V
      Standby Current: 35mA±5mA
      Stepper Motor Drivers: 5 channel Max
      Hot bed Output Control: 1 channel
      Heated output control: 2 channel
      Under-current output control: 3 channel
      Dimensions: 125mm x 82mm

  • 02 version
    • As above
    • Blue in appearance.

  • 03 version.
    • Trigorilla 8bit
    • Ultrabase
    • No inductive leveling-assist sensor
    • 1.1 firmware
    • Will use open source firmware in the near future. (most likely the community written effort, nothing to do with anycubic releasing the code)
    • http://www.anycubic3d.com/products/show/1048.html

  • 04 version.
    • TriGorilla mainboard 32bit
    • Ultrabase??
    • Z Sensor??
    • 1.4 firmware
    • Product URL??

What Alice Yu originally wrote, verbatim:
Currently we are selling 03 and 04 version. They have different USB driver, firmware and mainboard. 03 version is with 1.1 firmware, 04 version with 1.4 firmware and TriGorilla mainboard. Besides, 03 version will use open source firmware in the near future. As for 01 and 02 version, we do not produce and sell them now, and both of them have auto-leveling device but 02 version is blue appearance.

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by GeckoSub

I took the liberty to move my post from the FIRMWARE section to its own thread here, as I am hoping we might get some good info here. Also, I think it's a good idea to separate 8bit and 32bit board issues.

First of all, this is about the Mega04 version with the 32bit controller, not the 8bit one! So, please don't post here about 8bit issues or solutions.

Second of all, a big thanks to 'bartolomeus', whom I think identified ChiTu as the company making the 32bit boards and to 'bkrzysiek' for veryfying that it is actually possible to make certain changes to the stock FW (V1.4)! And thanks to 'gminnick' for chipping in, too (their posts are still in the hardware and firmware sections).

The reason for being able to customize the stock firmware on the 32bit controller is that, as of now, that board can not run Marlin. (But that may change in the future as it seems there's a lot of work happening to make it work on 32bit boards).

But "luckily" ChiTu has opened a backdoor as there is a range of things that can be modified in their, otherwise closed, firmware. Supposedly in Marlin, to make FW changes you have to recompile and upload the full FW to the printer. But in the ChiTu FW system, you can upload single lines of G-gode and save them to the printer. The changes will be there after reboots of the machine.

This is good news indeed, as you can set stepper values, step direction, build volume settings, various temp settings, jerk/speed/acceleration settings, thermistor type, Z-height offset, end stop types, etc.
But hold your horses... With the limited documentation we still have, it seems there's still some stuff we can't do this way. E.g. it seems we can't define pins. Also, it seems we can't set the preheating temps for the two different filament options - maybe somehow that is tied to the TFT user interface which is run by separate commands?

But the good news for me is that, at least, I can change the stepper direction and values for my upcoming Titan extruder mod which is what sparked this whole investigation for me in the first place.

Now, on to the documentation:
Here's a link to a text file 'bkrzysiek' posted containing a list of G-code commands that should allow us to modify the printer FW:

Someone else had a look into the same commands as 'bkrzysiek' and spent some time trying to make sense of them. Here's his write-up:

I have tested the stepper direction, extruder fan kick-in temp and a few other basic options and they all worked.

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i3 Mega S/Trigorilla with an E3D PT100?

by Ndlucas

Hello everyone. I'm in the process of upgrading my stock Mega S for higher temp materials. I've printed CF PC up to 260/90 and get pretty decent results. However, I think there's a bit of better layer adhesion and major speed increases to be gained. I have a new Bondtech BMG to convert it to direct drive and a new blower. The hotend I have is an E3D V6 Ultimate Edition(https://bit.ly/3irvn3k). I also have the E3D PT100 Sensor and Amplifier Board (https://bit.ly/2PA5lhT). I've printed the necessary parts for this (https://bit.ly/3kzWxqD).

Now, I have the documentation/schematic for the Trigorilla board and after examining it, and researching, I've seen a bit of conflicting info on how to connect the PT100 amplifier board. I've attached the Trigorilla pinout and the PT100 amplifier pinout here. I simply wired the 40w heater cartridge in the same place as the stock hotend was (HEATER0 - D10), which I believe is correct. I know how the PT100 sensor connects to the amplifier board. Easy. The confusing part is, how do I connect the PT100 amplifier board to the Trigorilla board (there's 3 pins on the side that connects to the mainboard from the amplifier?)? I can see the 5v and gnd on the AUX pins, but the other two are D42 and D43 (I suspect digital but the PT100 requires analog if I'm not mistaken). What do I need to do? If someone has done this or clearly knows exactly what needs to be done or how, I'd be very appreciative, and would definitely PayPal/CashApp to show some appreciation if it works. Thank you in advance.

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