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Need help with adhesion and supports, please

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Hey, everyone. I recently donated my FLSUN printer to a student, and picked up a Mega S to replace it. So far the learning curve hasn't been too bad, but there are two things I can't solve and they're becoming very frustrating.

1) Adhsesion. I'm getting good first layers, but sometime during the print, the entire print will detach from the bed. This happened with the test print owl, which i printed with the PLA that came with the printer. It's happening with other projects printed with PETG as well. In particular, one project that is only 3mm wide and 50mm tall. I use 8 lines of brim, and it still comes loose. Here are my settings:
Filament: Duramic PETG
Bed temp: 75c
Extruder temp: 240c
Addition to Z height: .1
Print speed: 30
Fan: no

The bed temp is still at 75c at the time the print comes loose. I don't understand why it comes loose when I can't get a finished print loose until the bed temp is below 40c.

2) Support. Using the print settings above, support does not come off. It's like it's welded to the print, a part of the print. Using the same settings on my FLSUN gave easy support removal with the same roll of filament.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm somewhat of a newb, so please don't get too technical.

Make sure the bed leveling is correctly made.
Clean the HB with isopropanol before print.
Use 90C for HB for PETG - ignore what is written on the roll...
Fan should be always ON for PLA or PETG - might be OFF for the first 1-2 layers to improve the adhesion.
Use first layer 0.3mm and cancel the addition to Z height.
Brim is really not necessary for PLA and PETG.

With fan ON the removal of supports should be already improved. Check in your slicer to have a minimal 0.3mm gap for supports.

Thanks for the info! I'll work on that over the next few days and report back on my results.

Well, I think I was getting close to a good print, but the hot end would start cooling down after the 3rd layer. Then it got too cold and would clog up. I was working on reducing my fan settings to see if that fixed the problem, when I kept getting the TO SENSOR ABNORMAL error message. I would have to reboot the printer and start over. After 4 or 5 times of that, I decided to send it back. Amazon was quick to accept the return, so off it went. On to something else now.

Fully agreed on everything you said, with the one exception that I often need a brim to keep sharp corners from coming up due to thermal warping.

Cleaning is a key point to me as the bed can give bad adhesion even when it's visually quite clean.

I prefer first layer about 0,2mm (for any layer heigth) and set to 120% width.
I would recommend to start fan after much more layers i.e. in 1,5mm level to prevent wrong adhesion and corners wraping. For PETG, I never use 100% (except some bridging), 60% as maximum is satisfied. For PLA, 100% is okay.
Too much cooling for PETG supports deformations, edge wraping etc. For some special prints (up to 2 perimeters) the cooling is better to let off.
No cooling for ASA or ABS.

What ASA filament did you manage to print without cooling? I ask because I learned the hard way a 50% cooling fan makes ASA to behave as PLA; without fan cooling was absolutely impossible to print ASA (with and without enclosure, tried up to 130C bed temperature, glue stick, ABS juice, custom rounded draft shields, raft etc) - it just warps badly and finally disconnects from the HB. The lower side of the cube without cooling, upper side with cooling, 3DJack ASA orange.

Interesting :-). I am using DevilDesign, but it is really complicated material. I will test it again with different level of cooling.

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