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PETG settings

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Just got my Mega the other day and have successfully printed several items using PLA.

Ordered some PETG and was hoping for advise on how to use. It looks like a great material.

Thanks.

PETG is very easy to print

Flow 100%, 225-235c, 50% fan, 45c first layer 60c, up to 80 mm/s, 4-6 mm @ 60mm/s retract

It's a good material, but it clogs your nozzles really easily. Basically it produces an oily residue as it prints, which eventually accumulates, this may or may not be what forms crusty carbonized deposits inside the heatblock between the nozzle and heatbreak and general vicinity.
Essentially you need to keep an eye on prints and don't just assume they will continue without suddenly clogging.
If you print more or less continuously without letting the nozzle cool down between prints you will probably get flawless performance until the spool finishes and you have to cool the nozzle.
It's not too hard to clean out once clogged, you essentially burn the bejesus out of it with something like a butane torch... outside... becasue it stinks and PET isnt that good for you. You generally want to ventilate while its printing too, its a relatively pleasant smell but it isn't really good for you.
Bed adhesion is quite good, on the right temperature bed.
You don't really need an enclosure for ambient heat control like ABS, but it would totally help.
It's a nice hard material, and pretty. Better than ABS for almost everything, but a bit of a bitch to use, like ABS, but less so.

Have some spare hotends (nozzle, heatblock, heatbreak pipe, and maybe heatsinks on hand.. becasue most of the time it's easier to swap it out and worry about cleaning it all later. iirc it's soluable in the right solvents... but youd need to look that up, and burning it off and wire brushing the components afterwards is much more direct.
Also a nozzle drill/cleaner for your diameter nozzle will be useful.

TL;DR: print.. and don't stop printing.
PS; if your heatbreak pipe has a PTFE/teflon liner (i3 megas do), then beware the ~250C plasticity point, above which you may end up damaging it and getting a fairly serious clog or just an ongoing issue that can be hard ot identify.

2017-10-20 EDIT:
Most of my comments are probably biassed by the fact that I had a damaged ptfe insert, which was causing a partial blockage. Since then I have switched between pla and petg a few times with no issues and without changing nozzles.

Thanks Betlog. That was excellent info.

Do you order the spare parts directly from AnyCubic? Do you have a good supplier? Found the Ebay store for parts but haven't tried it yet.

Thanks again.

Supplier of the day for today is:
https://jinbohao.en.alibaba.com/

I got tired of paying AU$30+ for filament about a month ago, so now that I need more I'm going to step it up a few notches.
The shipping costs $17 more than the 20Kg of filament (total 28 kg of freight), but ultimately I pay AU$16 per kg of filament, so it's still cheaper than buying locally or from china in small batches.

today, freight costs were:
20 rolls, US$4.9/kg
260 ROLLS (1 CBM), US$3.8/KG

Keep in mind that for 20 kg of filament, you have 28 kg of freight... that ratio will probably diminish a little as you go for a CUBIC METRE OF FILAMENT!!! (lol)

My supplier of the day is whoever offers the right thing for the best deal as I need it and search ali/ebay. No customer loyalty here :)
Anycubic are not a bad source pricewise, and yo ucan be very sure you are getting a compatible item with no thinking involved. Their Aliexpress is better stocked than ebay.
But if you want to shave some dollars or buy some items they dont have then you need to do some measuring of thigs and make sure you match what you buy very closely.
ie: their heatbreak tubes have ptfe liners, so unless the hole in the back of the nozzle is the right size the ptfe doesnt seat properly.. you clog, and often destroy the ptfe insert.
Or the lenght of thread on their nozzles is relatively long. Buy similar nozzles that have less thread and again, they dont seat on the heatbreak ptfe insert, and problems.
Generally all of these components are cheap though, so even if you buy one of everyhting available, you 'll learn the subtle differences and still end up with somehting you can use, and something that you can eventually use if you buy some other cheap and common item. Heatbreak tubes with no ptfe insert for example.. which also have some specific uses that you will eventually become interested in as you print different filament media.

I've been buying Anycubic filaments from Amazon, here in the UK with next day delivery at the same price as shipping from china?!? :-)

Sounds impossible. Compare the price to aliexpress and ebay. Not ebay.co.uk... ebay.com

Thanks for the info from everyone. Very useful.

Any other filaments that work well with the Mega? How about nylon/ABS? Have some projects that need extra durability.

One final question (a bit off topic). Where to find a parts list for nozzle types, extruders, PTFE tube etc? Seems to be a lot of variety out there and styles but not sure what the Mega uses. Can't find anything on that anywhere.

Thanks.

Petg is probably better than abs in almost every way.
For parts I have found it most reliable to either shop directly from the company's ebay/aliexpress protal from whom i bought the printer. Anycubic.
There is no convenient all inclusive list.
Or to get the parts I already have and do a detailed analysis on all of their dimensions, then research ebay/aliexpress. The reprap wiki has some attempts to consolidate information, but ultimately the manufacturers make a wide variety of items that are similar but different, sellers may be ignorant of these differences or actively avoid displaying them, it's really up to you to find a listing that displays all the info you need to make a decision about total compatibility. It can be tricky, but really theres only a few things you need to look out for on every item, and most things are cheap enough that you can get the wrong one and still be able to use it when you know what other item or particular application to pair it with.

I have bought my first roll of PETG for my i3 mega. My issue is the initial layer not sticking. So I cannot find the correct temperature for best printing.
I have read one article from rigidink ( https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175700615-petg-filament-heres-what-you-need-to-know ) that mentions increasing the z height. But I have not seen this meantioned anywhere else. The brand I have( https://3dprintz.co.uk/collections/petg/products/petg-1-75mm-filament-black )says the printing range is 210°C - 230°C (I have tried 210°C, 215°C and 230°C) and a bed temp of 70°C - 80°C which again I have tried.
I have created my first item on fusion 360 and managed to print a prototype in PLA (it is half a compression fitting for a friends dress making mannequin which had broken.) I now want to make a stronger version.

I have bought my first roll of PETG for my i3 mega. My issue is the initial layer not sticking. So I cannot find the correct temperature for best printing.
I have read one article from rigidink ( https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/175700615-petg-filament-heres-what-you-need-to-know ) that mentions increasing the z height. But I have not seen this meantioned anywhere else. The brand I have( https://3dprintz.co.uk/collections/petg/products/petg-1-75mm-filament-black )says the printing range is 210°C - 230°C (I have tried 210°C, 215°C and 230°C) and a bed temp of 70°C - 80°C which again I have tried. I have also tried with and without cooling and also no cooling on initial layer.
I have created my first item on fusion 360 and managed to print a prototype in PLA (it is half a compression fitting for a friends dress making mannequin which had broken.) I now want to make a stronger version.

@2urtle, I think you need to calibrate the bed and, if necessary, set the z-offset. For good calibration, you need to install Marlin firmware: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3249319
I had the same problem, recalibrating me helped. Also, before each print, I degrease the bed.

Anycubic i3 Mega / Mega-S Marlin 1.1.9 Custom Firmware - Extra Features & Quality Tweaks

Hi. I usually print in PET-g with bed temperature between 75 and 85 degrees, hotend at 245º degrees. i always decrease the speed. If i printed the same object in abs at 40mm/s i change the speed to 30mm/s or even less if the object has too many details like tiny angles. retraction i use 6mm and in general i give more space between the hotend and the base. In simplify 3d i do that adding 0.05mm in the Z axys. I will upload my Symplify config.

I used these settings as a starting point for printing PETG (since I've had ZERO success with it in the past).

These settings were a great start for my i3 MEGA-S. Thanks!

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