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General information collated into the most often asked questions and answers.
NOT an official Anycubic-operated forum; just customers discussing their machines.

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Mega-S extruder with TMC2208 noisy

by RetiredAndroid

Hello good people of Thingverse,
I just upgraded my Mega to Mega-S and with this opportunity I upgraded drivers to TMC2208, changed fans to silent, changed couplers and so on. I also changed extruder stepper to original E3D with 0.9 degree/step (not the smallest pancake package but this bigger one used with titans https://e3d-online.com/motors-compact-but-powerful-motor ). This bumped up my extruder resolution from circa 100 to almost 800 steps/mm (makes sense as E3D motor has twice resolution of stock one and -S extruder is rated 300-400 steps/mm).
All works silent and great.. except said extruder. I cannot set retraction speed over 20 mm/s or I get extremely loud noise of grinding gears. It does not seem to be problem with filament gripping, rather gears inside and/or motor make this nose. Even with 20 mm/s it is the loudest part of the printer.

Now, I'm wondering, is this normal? Was this motor an overkill? Is this geared extruder so loud?
What would you suggest to do? Go back to original extruder? Original stepper? Original driver? Order Titan extruder (although it seems Mega-S extruder is clone of Titan).
I'm running marlin 1.1.9 ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3249319 ) and ref. voltage for driver is already at 1.35V.

Thanks for any advice!

Anycubic i3 Mega / Mega-S Marlin 1.1.9 Custom Firmware - Extra Features & Quality Tweaks
extruder i3Mega noise TMC2208
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Need help with adhesion and supports, please

by JDubya69

Hey, everyone. I recently donated my FLSUN printer to a student, and picked up a Mega S to replace it. So far the learning curve hasn't been too bad, but there are two things I can't solve and they're becoming very frustrating.

1) Adhsesion. I'm getting good first layers, but sometime during the print, the entire print will detach from the bed. This happened with the test print owl, which i printed with the PLA that came with the printer. It's happening with other projects printed with PETG as well. In particular, one project that is only 3mm wide and 50mm tall. I use 8 lines of brim, and it still comes loose. Here are my settings:
Filament: Duramic PETG
Bed temp: 75c
Extruder temp: 240c
Addition to Z height: .1
Print speed: 30
Fan: no

The bed temp is still at 75c at the time the print comes loose. I don't understand why it comes loose when I can't get a finished print loose until the bed temp is below 40c.

2) Support. Using the print settings above, support does not come off. It's like it's welded to the print, a part of the print. Using the same settings on my FLSUN gave easy support removal with the same roll of filament.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm somewhat of a newb, so please don't get too technical.

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Solved: I3 Mega fan 2 losing power when Hotend reaches 50°

by Gruenbaer

Dear all,

I have a small LED strip soldered to fan 2, the Hotend fan.
When I turn on my I3 Mega, the Hotend fan starts blowing at full speed and the LED strip lightens up.

If I now preheat, the LEDs turn off at 50° and the fan becomes much slower. If I stop it with a finger it cannot start spinning again of its own - I gotta give it a little shove.

Up to now it was the other way around.
When idle nothing would move nor the LEDs shine.
Once the 50° were eceeded the hotend fan ran full speed and the LEDs turned on.

I have Merlin 1.1.9 installed for a year now and haven`t changed a thing.

Do you have any ideas how I could resolve this?


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Replaced a defective hotend, now it printed very bad

by Jedduff


My hotend had an issue. The PLA sticked to the hotend extruder and it ruined it.

I replaced the hotend with the spare included in the box. The prints are very bad. I leveled the bed and the rod with a calliper. Everything looks normal.

I can extrude easily when I use the option "filament in" on the menu.

My firmware is Marlin 2.0

What could cause this issue?

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Replacement Heatbed (Cable) Source in Germany?

by Bikecyclist

I just found that my heatbed cabling suffers from a broken wire, and now would like to replace the entire heatbed, or possibly only the cabling.

Do you know any source for either of these, preferrably in Germany or offering quick delivery to there at reasonable cost? Many thanks in advance!

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ultrabase loses grip

by bmn666

does the ultrabase lose grip over time?
after a few weeks i cannot get anything stuck to it:(

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Replacement Heatbed (Cable) Source in Germany?

by Bikecyclist

I just found that my heatbed cabling suffers from a broken wire, and now would like to replace the entire heatbed, or possibly only the cabling.

Do you know any source for either of these, preferrably in Germany or offering quick delivery to there at reasonable cost? Many thanks in advance!

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Print Bed Flatness

by Cativo

A common issue with most 3D printers is maintaining print bed flatness. Aside from adjusting the flatness with the four corner thumb screws, planarity is also critical. Print bed warpage is hard to correct, and that's one reason why some people mod their printers with glass beds (not to mention adhesion issues).

I performed that mod on my Mega since I had some flatness issues, and I wanted to use smaller nozzles, which required critical flatness (thanks BETLOG for the heads up!). What I found was interesting so I thought I would share my experience.
I ended up buying this glass and thermal pad:

However, after installing it and performing the flatness adjustment, it too seemed just as warped as the original aluminum bed. I could get all four corners adjusted perfectly, but the center was almost .2mm higher. What gives? Some people were reporting that their glass was coming in warped from the supplier, so I checked mine with an accurate straight edge and it was dead on flat, so where is the warpage coming from? I thought maybe the paper clips I used to hold down the glass was warping it, but I also checked it installed and it showed perfect flatness, so how is the center rising up .2mm?

As it turns out, there was a bend in the two y-axis shafts, which I found odd since they are made from high precision steel. Well what I discovered was the shafts on their own were pretty straight (after removing them), but what was causing them to bow were the end mounts. The end mounts don't have a very large mounting surface so they can easily tilt if there are any surface variations in the sheet metal cover that they are mounted to, and in fact, they mount very close to the edge where there is a bend radius. You can tell if the alignment of the end mounts are off by loosening the four set screws (one on each side of both ends) and attempting to slide the shaft back and forth. If everything is aligned well, they should easily slide and rotate. Mine didn't. What I did to fix the problem was loosen the end mount attachment fasteners (to get the jammed shafts to slide out) and take a 5/16th drill bit (slightly smaller than the shaft diameter) and insert the smooth end into the end mount hole. Carefully use the drill bit to bend the sheet metal slightly, correcting the tilt. It will take several attempts to bend and check free movement of the shafts. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about (exaggerated in Photoshop to illustrate the tilt):

Once everything was straight, the bed was much flatter and I could successfully print at .05 layer thickness. I think the Anycubic design team should consider widening the end mount footprint so that it would be less likely to tilt with small surface variations, or check for free rotation after they are mounted. I hope this helps anyone with print bed flatness issues!

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I3 Mega print issues

by SiostraStachu

I have my Anycubic I3 Mega and it's print bad. I'm preety sure it's not the extruder spring tension issue. I was looking on the internet but didn't found any clues what is wrong. Anybody have an idea what can be cousing the issues?

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