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by BETLOG

General information collated into the most often asked questions and answers.
NOT an official Anycubic-operated forum; just customers discussing their machines.



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Just acquired Anycubic i3 Mega S

by timb12957

I have just purchased a used i3 Mega S. I need someone to point me in the right direction for a total newb. I have autocad experience, and desktop laser experience, but know nothing about a 3d printer. I'm sure there is a place for a complete greenhorn like me to learn the ropes! Thanks

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I think i have a „slight“ layershift problem

by Wurzelpeter

Just Cameron back after an 8 hour Print to this.
I think on the Future i have to make shure that the Cable of my nozzle-cam is not getting caught on the Frame xD

fail Silly mistake
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Heatbed shows correct "ambient" temperature but won't heat up

by Wurzelpeter

Hello There!

I think there is something fishy with my heatbed.

It shows the correct "ambient" temperature but it won't heat up / if it heats up and a pit starts at some point the Firmware toggles "thermal Runaway protection".

Octoprint shows "Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed - Printer halted. kill() called!"

I already checked the Solderpoints on the bed itself and resoldered the blue and green wire (just to be safe), and also resoldered the Power and Groundwires.

I have checked continuity for all wires and did not find anything out of the ordinary.

does anyone have a clue what is going on?

heatbed Heated_Bed Help Octoprint thermal_runaway
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X and Y axis perpendicularity

by HansvG

It all started when I was looking under the bed at the Y axes belt, this was not looking straight, the belt was bended down at the pulley on the stepper motor.
So I loosened the pulley and moved it 3 mm up and straightened the belt. This had a direct result, when moving the bed I felt less resistance.
After this was done I looked at the X belt, this was off also and more the X axis were not parallel to the frame. I decided to fix this problem as well.
By loosening the 8 hex bolts that connects the U frame to the bottom part of the printer you will find the there is a lot of play, you can shear your U frame quite a bit. Used my eyes to shear the frame so the X axis were parallel to the frame and fastened the hex bolts and, checking that the frame did not move. After that I aligned the X belt by loosening the pulley of the X stepper motor so I could make the belt parallel to the X rods and frame.
This also resulted in a lot less resistance moving the print head.
After that I wanted to check if my efforts worked. I printed a large rectangle and measured the sides and diagonal.
As you all now they must be 1 : 1 x √2, in my case 144.4 mm and 204.2 mm.
It all worked just fine now my X and Y axis are perpendicular.

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BLTouch measurements are inconsistent along X-axis

by mosaari

I installed "MK4 X-Carriage w/ Direct Drive Upgrade" and BLTouch clone on my Mega-s.

First of all, I manually adjusted the level of the four corners of the bed using a thickness gauge. When I run a print in this situation, I can see that the filament is properly seated in the bed.

When I run a probe on all four corners in this situation, ideally I should get the same z-offset on all four corners, but I always get z-offsets that is about 0.15mm too narrow on the right side of the X-axis. (I get relatively stable z-offsets for the Y axis.)

Like this:

  X -          +
Y
-  0.00      0.15

+  0.00      0.15

I suspect this is because the two bars for X-Carriage are not aligned, but there doesn't seem to be a way to adjust the alignment in Mega-s. Or could it be some other problem?

Any advice on how to get the z-offsets to be consistent at both ends of the X-axis would be appreciated.

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Print bed is "high" in the middle.

by Armor9

I have done all the leveling in the 4 corners with the paper and feel a little resistance. However, when I then check the print bed in the very middle, it is high, the paper is VERY tight. When I make prints in the middle, the nozzle actually digs into the bottom layer as it is printing it.

I have contacted Anycubic and now they want me to disassemble the print bed and pull the rods from there as well as the rods from the print head. I honestly do not feel comfortable disassembling it that much.

Any thought on what I can do besides that to fix the high center?

Thanks!

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TMC 2208 there is a lot of confusion on this topic...

by Daddyguitar

Hi guys, i've decided to change the stock steppere motor with the TMC 2208, but everywhere I'm looking for some information I only find a lot of confusion.
Let's start by saying I'v already purchase 4 TCM 2208 GeeekPi V2.

-The easy part is, as I've understood, to mount them tilted 180° so that the GRD on the 2208 match the GRD on the motherboard. So I only need to check GND position
-Even the Vref setting looks kind of easy to me
-The real problem is abuot invertig the connector or not....someone say you always need to do that, sameone say with V2 TMC 2208 you don't need to do that, someone say that with V2 you HAVE to do it, some one say that with V3 you don't have to do it, somone say that with V3 averything is super easy because it's plug and play because it automatically tkes care of every setting and, in the end, someone say that the V3 is the most difficult because you have to do tons of settings...

I'm really confused...can some one point me to an article or something that explain if I need to invert the cables or not? Is it an information that comes with the "TMC2208 stepper motors manual"?

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Retraction & Stringing Issues

by Armor9

I have done several retraction/stringing prints and no matter what temp or retraction setting, I am getting issues with stringing. Granted some prints were better than others, but every single one had some stringing. Is some stringing normal?

I tested everything from temps of 190 up to 220 and retraction from 4-8 and times from 40mm/s to 60mm/s.

My printer is an i3 Mega Pro with no other mods.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Best Slicer to use?

by Armor9

Currently I am using the latest version of Cura for my slicer but is that the best one to use? I have heard good things about Prusa but never used it. Can anyone give their input and insight into the different slicer and if it is worthwhile to change? Thanks.

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