Anycubic i3 Mega

Mega i3 Pro Z axis Limit switch. Ihad to replace the z axis limit switch on my Anycubic Mega i3 Pro, switch now working but shuts off power when activated for homing, have adjusted both switches but still shouts down printer. Any suggestions please.
Mike B.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5147287

Just wanted to share the new design. Feedback is welcomed.

Thread to document and discuss the various i3 mega's firmware.

This thread will almost certainly occasionally overlap with the HARDWARE thread:
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-i3-mega/topic:26118

Marlin 1.1.6 with original Anycubic i3 Mega display support
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-i3-mega/forums/general/topic:25471

Official firmware release
https://github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/I3-MEGA/tree/master/Marlin_TFT_CR_V1.1.1
Usefulness unverified.

Everything else under this line was written before functional firmware was available, so is likely to be incorrect.

"I just got my printer and I want to flash the firmware to be sure it's the latest"
No. Flashing the i3 mega is not as easy as it should be. Just go and print stuff.

Why?

• YES. The official sourcecode is "available" and you can modify it.

  • However simple things like the age of the files means that syntax will conflict with newer IDE's. Simple anomalies like trigorilla.h being referenced when the file is actually called Trigorilla.h (uppercase/lowercase discrepancy), and Configuration.h still using the standard LCD2004 (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) do not inspire confidence that it is actually the source. It almost certainly is not, but rather a hobbled-together collection of old code from previous printers that omits any reference to the i3 megas TFT.
  • Unofficial sourcecode is available. See note #1 at bottom

• NO. The official source will not compile as-is.

  • It will give variable name errors unless you
  • 1) use the old Arduino IDE (at the time of writing this may no longer be possible)
  • or 2) you make some copy/paste edits to the source code to update the variable names to the new IDE requirements.
  • or 3) Manually go through a copy of the new code and intelligently insert values relevant from the old code, or that you know to be correct. This method is not difficult, but it does require an understanding of what you are doing. Comparing the 'official' mega sourcecode from Configuration.h against the new Marlin Configuration.h will help you to begin understanding.

• YES. A compiled .hex is available for the i3 mega and i3 ultrabase.

  • So if you should manage to kill your firmware you "should* be able to reflash it from the pre-compiled hex.
  • One of these .hex files includes the dual z-endstop modification. So if your levels are always mysteriously wrong, and nozzle crashing into he bed on first print of the day, then you should consider this.

• NO. We do not have access to the firmware for the touchscreen. (which is separate to the printer firmware)

  • In theory you can modify Marlin and not alter the touchscreen at all. However there is no known option for the anycubic TFT in marlin firmware, so you therefore cannot select a compatible display option in marlin, and therefore eithe rlose the display entirely, or need to (physically and in firmware) substitute another known display type.
  • REQUEST: Someone please try all of the other available Marlin options for LCD screens, to test if the anycubic screen is in any way functional under a similar driver.

• YES. You can use a LCD2004 or 12864, or any commercial TFT like the MKS32

• YES. If you are working on accessing or reverse engineering the TFT operations then you are our hero and we love you. Please keep us updated on any progress or task delegation requests.

• NOTE: Anycubic seem to neglect to adjust the version number on their hex releases, so don't be surprised if the 'new' hex you flash has the same version number as the original one.
  • The above assumption needs confirmation, but I have seen it mentioned a couple of times now, so to the best of my knowledge it is correct.
  • REQUEST: Someome please test and confirm:
  • hex [list it's filename and where it came from]
  • has what purpose [list it's supposed functionality ie: dual-z-sensor, ultrabase version, original inductive sensor version, etc]
  • displays what version numbers

RELEVANT RESEARCH:
Bought to my attention by Matej Zubčić on Facebook:
https://github.com/DIYElectronicsZA/Anycubic_i3_Mega?files=1

Basic firmware info:

Anycubic official:
http://www.anycubic3d.com/en/col.jsp?id=158&fref=gc
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B8VIB533cgdMMmJyb3hTNThuZFU
https://github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/I3-MEGA

pkochubey's host of the hex:
https://yadi.sk/d/k95QGu9O3JXuk6

Arduino IDE (compile the sourcecode and upload the hex to printer):
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage

• How do I compile sourcecode:

  • get the Arduino IDE
  • get the source code (but becasue there is no really definitive package, and you will have to edit whatever you get anyway, you may as well just get the latest Marlin source and - using logic - modify it to be similar to whatever source code appears to be most like the i3 mega. The previous 'anycubic prusa i3' model's soure is probably most appropriate and available.
  • open the .ino file found within the source code with Arduino IDE
  • plug your computer into your arduino board via USB
  • check that the iDE is set to a mega 2560 type board
  • check that the iDE is set to the correct com port (the printer wil appear as one when it's connected)
  • Ctrl U
• How do I decompile/edit the .hex? :
  • You don't.

NOTES:

• 1 : If you know how to modify firmware code, and are prepared to use your brain to figure out if this is entirely appropriate or not there is this:
  https://github.com/duisenberg/AnyCubic-I3/tree/master/Firmware
  The standard machine does not use one driver for the two Z nemas - so there are some obvious modifications, but this source is likely to be about as close to standard with improvements as any.

I have this i3mega for a few years now, this week it start showing this problem in some prints where pasts 10 to 20 mins the hot-bet and hot-end stop heating, temps start drooping showing so in the printer display and on the cura software.

Firmware is the original from fabric
Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.12
Printing with usb cable direct from pc

Any ideas of what could by causing this issue?