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Tutorial for 3 point bed leveling on Anet A6

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I want to describe you my personal project of 3 points bed leveling for my Anet A6.
I read as much as possible on the web about this argument before starting to put hands on the printer and if you are reading this post I can suppose you know the argument of discussion.
Finally I think I can say I found a simple way to mod the printer with a better leveling system.
To reduce friction I also changed heated bed support guide system, mounting 3 linear bearing instead of 4.
Some material and manual skills are required for the mod.
MATERIAL
1 X heated bed support
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32851039659.html?pm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d3I4DFy
3 X linear bearings (optional)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32842228003.html?pm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWYbJr2
12 X screws M410 mm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965979997.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.57c95accViLC5X&algo_pvid=637d306f-e1f7-45e1-b5ab-3c12ad08f4f3&algo_expid=637d306f-e1f7-45e1-b5ab-3c12ad08f4f3-5&btsid=0b0a182b15837779914485493ec5c2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
3 X screws M3
10 mm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000020967604.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.57c95accViLC5X&algo_pvid=637d306f-e1f7-45e1-b5ab-3c12ad08f4f3&algo_expid=637d306f-e1f7-45e1-b5ab-3c12ad08f4f3-2&btsid=0b0a182b15837779914485493ec5c2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
2 X ball heads https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B0834LB2X5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 X aluminum blocks 10x10x9 mm
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Barra-Quadrata-Quadra-Alluminio-6082-da-5-6-8-10-12-15-mm-IN-DIVERSE-LUNGHEZZE/112278998393?hash=item1a24598d79:m:mhQ6RbtrUwZUAF5zciKAqeg
Epoxy Glue https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01GUBDPRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
M3 hand thread taper

First of all 2 apparently obvious recommendation: use a drop of middle threadlocker on screws and pay attention to orientation of the new bed support to avoid mistakes as I did :)
Let’s start preparing the swivel joint between the heated bed and his support.
It’s better to shorten a little the head, in this way we can continue to use the original leveling screws. If we leave the ball heads as they are, leveling screws will become short and have to be substitute.
FIG1
Then we cut an M3 mm screw to obtain the inner rod to join the two ball heads.
FIG2
FIG3
Next step is creating 2 little aluminum blocks 10109 mm cutting them from a bar. Great precision is NOT required.
We make a 2,5 mm hole on the center of narrow face and then we thread the hole with a M3*0,5 mm taper.
FIG4

Next step is to glue with the epoxy glue the 2 blocks on the lower face of the heated bed and the heated bed support.
Due to the limited space available we will glue the blocks 5 mm from the edges. This position obliges us to create a recess on the heated bed support for the swivel joint pass. You can use a file or a Dremel.
FIG5
Using the new bed support old screws become too much short, so now we can mount the 3 linear bearing on heated bed support using 12 M4x10 screws. I recommend to refresh the holes on support with a 4,5 mm drill, in this way you will have some play to adapt bearings, rods and support between themselves.
First mount bearing blocks on rods, then start to tight progressively the M4*10 screws moving the heated bed support verifying friction.
FIG6
Next step is mounting heated bed.
I don’t use spring on leveling wheels, I prefer to use 2 wheels for every level point. I think it’s a more solid and stable solution but you make as you prefer.
FIG7
Now connect the swivel joint to the blocks with 2 M3x10 screws and so we are able to proceed to a first raw leveling.
FIG8
First of all we measure the distance between the upper face of heated plate and the lower face of heated bed support on the swivel join point. This is the fix referring point. A caliper is comfortable but also a ruler can be used. Then we adjust this measure on the other 2 leveling points using the leveling wheels.
Next step is the fine leveling of the bed. You will apply the usual leveling procedure with the sheet of paper starting from the referring point on swivel join and then on the other 2 leveling points.
I found this operation really more easier, fast and accurate than the usual 4 points one and it worked like a charm.
I’m very satisfied of the result, I’s relatively simply and easy to realize and It’s a clear work.
I hope that this tutorial could help some reader.

I agree with DimaFed - 3 point leveling mor comfortable. With 4 point levelling there is always the danger to bend your bed and then get tension on the plate. This can lead to various problems.

I wonder why you created a quite complicated solution as there is some really easy concepts already available for just 5€ (even cheaper if you do it on your own), as an example:
https://shop.bohrers.de/traverse-3-punkt-leveln-220mm.html

Uhm... the link is broken but I found some pictures of the parts you suggest in the cache of the web. Before starting to do anithing I searched online for something as you say but I found nothing. I suppose becouse I searched in English language and the website is in German, so I invented something by myself looking at others ideas.

Don't mind - it is always good to have several solutions... ;-)

3 point bed leveling is definitely much better than original 4 point. Buy the way I personally after many experiments just fixed bed without springs and let autolevel compensate little deviation on SW level. It works perfect for me, easy and simple))).

I love the creative ways people come up with for bed leveling. although I don't quite have as much of an issue with bed leveling as others do. I spend approx. 3 min. leveling my bed each print and have yet to have any issues.