MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
The stock creality hot end is a PTFE style hotend so you still need a short Bowden tube connecting the extruder and the hot end. These types of hot ends are prone to clogging because often you get a gap between the Bowden tube and the nozzle. There are various solutions for this but the simplest (and my favourite one) is as follows:
Preheat your hot end to 200degrees. The hot end assembly can only be pulled apart hot. Unscrew the nozzle and pull out the Bowden tube.
Screw in nozzle all the way, and then unscrew it a 3/4 turn. I use a socket head with a mark on it to know how far to unscrew.
Insert your Bowden tube into the hotend as far as it will go and then some.
This method works, because it squishes the Bowden tube against the nozzle thereby ensuring no gap. The length of Bowden tube you will need is roughly 65mm long. This is maybe a bit long, but you can trim it later. Make sure the end that goes into the hot end is cut straight. There are guides you can print that can help you with this.
To run klipper firmware, you need an external application processor. The easiest one is a raspberry pi. An old laptop and even an android device can work too, but that requires pretty advanced knowledge of linux. Get octoprint running first and then the klipper documentation will walk you through the install. As far as configuration, start with the .cfg file already provided for ender3 in the klipper installation. From there you can adjust all settings pertaining to your printer. The only changes I made to this file is setting pressure_advance to 0.2, and acceleration to 2500. These settings work for my printer, but may be slightly different for yours. I recommend playing around with these.