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I thought i had a really warped bed initially when i got my CR-10s and went thru the same thing with ikea-mirrors etc...... Your description at least sound like my initial experience..

The actual cause of why it was warped was not a bad bed but that i had applied too much pressure applied on the 4 corners, causing it warp.

One thing i would recommend you to do is unscrew all leveling-screws and then to get a really straight ruler and then put it flat on the bed and shine a light behind the ruler to see if you have a gap anywhere... If you do then you do have a warped bed.. If you don't you might just need to change the way you level it.. You might be able to use parts of my below leveling procedure to force it flat(er)...

What i did to get a my bed flat.

  • When referring to corners below : LB - Left back corner, RB - Right back corner, FL - Front left corner, FR - Front right corner.
  • Leveling the bed with the below procedure should be done without any glass or mirrors on the bed. I used a small, flat, piece of metal that was about the same height as my glass-sheet to measure the distance between the aluminum plate and nozzle.
  • This full procedure should not be needed every time. Between prints or for small adjustments just jump to step 6.
  • You may need to print out one of the adjustable z-endstop before you start with this to prevent your nozzle running into the aluminum plate during this procedure.
  • Use some kind of markers to keep track of how much you have adjusted the bed-leveling screws.
  • REQUIREMENT: Do not turn off your printer, or disable the steppers, during leveling since that may cause the Z axis to drop down!
  • REQUIREMENT: Make sure your Y-carriage is stable! Loads of CR-10/10s printers gets shipped with the wheels quite loose! When you press down on the black plate it should be the plate that flexes and not the wheels!
  • REQUIREMENT: Make sure your X-axis is level before you start! ( useful thing : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2443037 )
  • YMMW - This is what worked for me.... Think it thru before starting.. Use gloves if working with a heated bed.. You have both electricity and heat in that bed!
  1. Screw in/out all bed-leveling screws just to the extent where the springs are just starting to compress. (half a turn after after the spring touches the bed)
  2. In cw/ccw for all 4 corners turn each knob one full turn to tighten it.
  3. Check for flatness of the bed. Go to step 2 as long as the bed is fully flat.
  4. Turn back all bed-leveling screws equally until your bed is flat again. (step 1+2 in reverse, but less than a full turn on each go)
    At this point you know the lowest point you can go for maximum stability without it warping the bed.
  5. Start a corner-leveling of the printer and check all corners before doing any adjustments.
  6. For adjustments at this point it may be a bit tricky.. To start with only adjust the lowest corner and only release pressure.
    If your FL corner is the lowest corner unscrew it up to half a turn and unscrew the two other corners next to it half of the amount. For 0.5 turns on FL that would be 0.25 turn on FR and LB.
    Repeat this until all corners are within 1mm of each other and recheck for flatness between each adjustment. (or until you get a feel for it)
    This should now result in you having a base-leveling.
  7. Recheck the bed for flatness from corner to corner. If you can see light under the ruler when it goes from FL to RB then tighten FL and RB equally OR loosen RB and FR.
  8. Now do your actual accurate leveling of each corner without having to worry too much about it getting warped for the <1mm adjustments you need per corner.
  9. Warm up the bed to 50 degrees and re-check for flatness... If warped after heating you still have too much pressure.. Unscrew all corners equally until flat-ish and go back to step 6.

This allowed me to get a flat bed without any warping, but it was not as stable as i wanted it to be and that required me to print at lower speeds.

Since then i have swapped out the bed-springs for silicon standoffs that do not require as much pressure for getting a stable bed. If you are looking for some go for stiff ones with as large diameter as possible, while keeping clear of the insulation, and don't worry too much about the height since you can always add some washers.
I have also redone the cable-guide for the hotbed so it's completely disconnected from the bed-leveling screws since it caused higher tension on that corner. (drilled a separate hole to attach it to in the carriage.)

This was my story with what i thought was a warped bed... Maybe you have the same issue as i had and this helps, and if not it might help someone else.

** Tried to keep things as simple and as descriptive as possible for other people that may be new into 3d-printing out there...

CR-10 X-Axis Level Helpers/Towers