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A full set of ABS parts for this including shipping was about $42. Just the Effector in nylon including shipping was $95 (I know, but I want this to work and be pretty robust). They did come back before printing in nylon to ask how critical the knife edge that splits the cooling air flow was. Their software shows that sharp angled edge was not going to print well. I looked at the ABS print and it was more rounded than sharp. For a purist, this might make a difference but in practice, it will have no real effect on the air flow.

After playing with this, you can hold off screwing into the pillars until last but I think I'm going to drill out the holes on the mount to the pillars - first to give it a bit of freedom if the pillars are not 100% vertical due to sagging and second, so the only place the threads are working is in the pillar and not binding on the mount (a lot easier to tighten down if you are just calling the mount a "washer" instead of it being a second "nut" that has to go tight up against the top of the pillar without stripping the thread of one or both). Just wondering if 1-2mm deep holes for the pillars in the bottom of the mount plate might not help to hold alignment during assembly (would have to add the same amount to the pillar height). Maybe not a good thing for some of us "support challenged" printers.

I'm hoping to cure a lot of problems with my first homemade Kossel Mini:

Hall effect probe is not 100% reliable and not a true indication of my nozzle height.
I built mine upside down intentionally to make the wiring a lot cleaner with everything on top and power supplies and switching running up the back of the Z stage. The problem is that it coupled bed leveling and belt tensioning. Pretty to look at but clean prints would be a lot nicer.
Replace Traxas rod ends with magnetic ball joints (this plus the Molex connector will make servicing much easier)
Replace an older E3D hotend built from a kit that jams using PLA with one of the newer ones that is prebuilt and heat cycled. (my guess is that being a Bowden tube version, it is an issue with heat migration up to where the Bowden tube seats along with a not perfectly vertical Bowden tube entering the hotend or possibly a badly seated nozzle during assembly)
Use a Nimble direct extruder and get rid of a meter of filament spring inside of the Bowden tube and get perpendicular feed down the axis of the hotend, plus the biggest gain - the ability to easily change filaments
Silicone socks for the hot end - not just a fashion statement! (Don't know why filament always curves up to start. Sort of like going to the dentist and they tell you to spit in the sink - even with my head below the counter level in the sink, I can still miss)
Carriages with adjustable endstop screws so I can do manual leveling
And replace my borosilicate glass that now has a huge piece of surface glass missing caused by an over-adheared ABS print that cooled unevenly.